Hong Kong and
        Its People
        Exciting, mysterious, glamorous — these words have described
        Hong Kong for at least a century. With its vibrant atmosphere and
        night-and-day activity it is an intoxicating place. Hong Kong is
        crowded — it has one of the world’s greatest population densities. But
        it is also efficient, with one of the best transportation systems
        anywhere, and for such a crowded place, quiet — you don’t hear voices
        raised in anger, motorists sitting on their horns, or loud boomboxes.
        Shopping never ends — there’s always another inviting spot just down
        the street. You’ll find Hong Kong easy to get around, the people
        helpful, English spoken everywhere, and food that lives up to its
        reputation.
        On 1 July, 1997 the British Crown Colony of Hong Kong
        reverted to Chinese sovereignty as a Special Administrative Region of
        the People’s Republic of China. Today Hong Kong remains a capitalist
        enclave with its laws and rights intact, and China has promised that
        Hong Kong will continue in this fashion for at least 50 years.
        Beijing’s announced policy of maintaining Hong Kong’s prosperity and
        stability makes sense. Hong Kong has long been China’s handiest window
        on the West, and the city is unrivaled in its commercial know-how and
        managerial expertise. Around the time of the transition there was much
        speculation about how things would change. But in fact, once news of
        the handover vanished from the front pages, the people of Hong Kong
        returned to their usual topics of conversation: the economy and the
        price of housing.
        The impression of the visitor today will be that very little
        has changed. Establishments are no longer called “Royal,” Queen
        Elizabeth has vanished from the coinage, and the Union Jack has been
        replaced by the flag of China and the new Hong Kong flag with its
        bauhinia flower. But in fact, there have been changes, many of them due
        to economic progress, new construction, and other factors that
        influence cities all over the world.
        Others are more subtle. British social customs are still
        evident in the kind of polite service you get in hotels and in the long
        lines of people waiting for buses at rush hour. The British population
        has decreased; today there are as many American and Australian ex-pats
        as there are British.
        With a population of nearly eight million and a total area
        of just over 1,095 square km (423 square miles), housing is one of Hong
        Kong’s perennial nightmares. To alleviate the problem, the government
        has become the city’s major landlord with the construction of massive
        apartment blocks that, though they have every modern facility, average
        only 9 square m (100 square ft) in size. Whole cities have been created
        in the New Territories, although the unimaginative architecture of
        these towns has been criticized.
        Of Hong Kong’s population, 98 percent are Chinese. The
        majority are Cantonese, born in Hong Kong, or from South China, but
        there are immigrants from all over China. The Chinese people have been
        described as hardworking and pragmatic, attitudes that have contributed
        to Hong Kong’s success. There are many stories of refugees who arrived
        with nothing in their pockets, set up a small sidewalk stall, worked
        diligently until they had their own store, and then expanded it into a
        modest chain.
        Old customs are still followed: Fate and luck are taken very
        seriously, and astrologers and fortune-tellers do a steady business.
        Before a skyscraper can be built, a feng shui (see page 68)
        investigation must take place to ensure that the site and the building
        will promote health, harmony, and prosperity. You’ll also notice that
        gambling is a passion, whether it be cards, mah-jong, the lottery, or
        the horses. Hong Kong has two major racetracks as well as an intensive
        off-track betting system, and on weekends the ferries to Macau are
        crowded with people on their way to the casinos.
        Sightseeing in Hong Kong starts at sea level with the
        enthralling water traffic — a mix of freighters, ferries, tugs, junks,
        and yachts. Views of the city and the harbor are panoramic. From
        Victoria Peak, Hong Kong’s highest point, or from skyscrapers and
        hotels, they are especially exciting at night when the lights are
        on.
        The business and financial center and the signature soaring
        architecture are on Hong Kong Island. Across Victoria Harbor, connected
        by ferry and the MTR rail line, is the Kowloon peninsula with its
        hotels, nightlife, and almost non-stop shopping. Beyond, in the New
        Territories, are a mixture of high-rise suburban towns, ancient sites
        and walled villages, country parks, and farms with ducks and fish
        ponds. Hong Kong’s other, less developed islands, Lantau, Lamma, and
        Cheung Chau, provide getaways. You can also take a ferry to Macau to
        find an entirely different kind of city, a unique blend of Chinese and
        Iberian culture.
        It’s anyone’s guess what may happen in the future, but for
        now Hong Kong bristles with energy and ambition, and for the visitor,
        this beautiful city with its contrasts and variety is an exhilarating
        experience.