•• • •• •Ibiza and Formentera • Ibiza offers a healthy slice of the Mediterranean lifestyle infused with some of the spirit and architecture of North Africa. Although it is strictly a part of the Spanish archipelago known as the Islas Pitiusas, or pine-covered isles, Ibiza in fact displays many of the characteristics of the Islas Baleares, or Balearic Islands, of neighbouring Mallorca and Menorca, with which it is commonly grouped. In terms of government, it is part of the Spanish province of Baleares. Here you’ll find all the resorts, bars, and discos you could wish for, but there are also traditional villages, deserted beaches, secret coves, and quiet walks for when all you want to do is escape the fray. •Formentera, Ibiza’s diminutive neighbour just one hour’s ferry-boat ride (or 25 minutes by hydrofoil) to the south, is an island apart — in some ways more like a desert island than a satellite or outpost of Ibiza. During the supremacy of the Barbary Coast pirates in the 16th and 17th centuries, Formentera was so vulnerable it had to be abandoned, and it wasn’t resettled until the 18th century. Now it offers the perfect antidote to the stress of modern-day living, and is the ideal place to recharge yourself before another evening of exuberant nightlife back on “mainland” Ibiza. Alternatively, if you prefer to find an even quieter stretch of beach, the waters around Ibiza are dotted with a host of minor islets, most uninhabited but all eminently explorable. •One thing you’ll quickly realize about Ibiza is its laissez-faire attitude towards life. On this island paradise, tourists and expatriates coexist side by side with movie stars, artists, the young and trendy, ageing hippies, and, of course, locals, the total residential population being over 80,000. Despite the onset of tourism, in many parts the islanders still adhere to old traditions, living off the fruits (literally! ) of land and sea. Ibiza, small as it is, is not one of those barren Mediterranean rocks with an allure that begins and ends at the beach, and although it’s a part of Spain, it is not the usual bullfight-and-flamenco scene. The people are a distinct race: they have a unique, ancient heritage and a passionate folklore all their own. They also have their own language, Ibicenco, a dialect related to the mallorquí (Majorcan) branch of the Catalan language, though Castilian is spoken as well. •Ibiza lies nearer to the coast of North Africa than to the Catalonian city of Barcelona. With an area of just 541 sq km (209 sq miles), it is slightly smaller than the Isle of Man or twice Martha’s Vineyard in Massachusetts. It may not be much of a speck on the globe, but it is big enough to contain a modest mountain, verdant farms, and — that real Mediterranean novelty — a river. Likewise, the island’s highest peak, Mount Sa Talaia, or Atalaya (475 meters/1,558 feet), hardly ranks among the world’s most dramatic, but you can see Spain from the top. •The climate here is distinctly Mediterranean: temperature extremes are uncommon and days are warm throughout the year, with the heat of the summer usually tempered by sea breezes. This, combined with the island’s extraordinary underground water resources, assures the success of Ibiza’s agriculture. For the tourist, the olive, fig, and almond trees are objects of beauty and colour; for the farmer, they’re cash crops. So is the salt, drying in the huge, square pans at Las Salinas in the south. •The capital of Ibiza, called simply Ibiza, or Ibiza Town, has a population of almost 35,000. This is the island’s main city and financial, governmental, and administrative centre, and its charms match those of other Mediterranean “jewels. ” It is also a major entertainment spot with its own appeal, from the whitewashed houses of the ancient walled city clambering up the hillside to the hustle and bustle of the harbour area, with its bistros and boutiques. Its popularity is such that it has gained a reputation for being something of a trend-setters’ haven — post-modern or New Age, this is the place to be. •The busiest tourist town on the island lies 15 km (9 miles) west of the capital. The Romans called it Portus Magnus (great port), which the Ibicencos adapted to Portmany. You might still come across both versions, but the official name of the boom town is Sant Antoni Abad (San Antonio in Castilian or Abbot St. Anthony in English). Skirting the bay, which has been transformed into a variation on Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana Beach, are high-rise hotels and apartment buildings. The resort is a centre not only for beach activities but for lively nightlife as well. •The second largest — as opposed to busiest — town on the island is Santa Eulària del Riu (or Río) on the east coast. Originally this was merely a hamlet on a hilltop crowned by a picturesque fortress-church. Now the tourist imperative has extended the town all the way down to the sea and far along the coast. •Other villages are much less developed, and therein lies the essence of many delights. If you head inland to the less populous centre of the island, you’ll find hamlets consisting of little more than a whitewashed church, a general store, and a bar. This is the time to relax over a glass of the locally made hierbas (an alcoholic drink made from herbs), listen to the crickets, and watch the world go by.