Israel and the Israelis Israel is many things to many people: a land of hope, wonder, faith, salvation, contradiction, and sometimes despair. Although Israel is only now 50 years old, the roots of its three prime religious faiths (Juda­ism, Islam, and Christianity) stretch back over many millennia, and some of its ancient settlements are amongst the oldest on earth. Abraham, the first Jewish Patriarch, led his people here in search of “the land of milk and honey”; Jesus Christ was born, lived, ministered, and died here; and Mohammed, the founder of Islam, visited Jerusalem during his heavenly “Night Journey. ” Each religion and sect — Jews, Muslims (including Druse), Christians (including Armenian and Eastern Orthodox, Catholics, Protestants, Samaritans, and Copts), Baha’i, and several more — claims some piece of this sacred earth. Each faith worships a single god and recognizes elements of the others’ beliefs. Sometimes more than one denomination shares one church. The church may then be marked out to designate where worshippers of the various denominations take their place. This giddying confluence of distinct religions is matched only by the diversity of the population. As a largely immigrant society, the State of Israel provides home to people from over 80 countries around the world. Nearly half the Jewish inhabitants hail from overseas, and they have brought with them many of the accumulated customs and cultural traditions of their former homes. In the face of such plurality it’s hard to characterize Israel. This is a land where different and sometimes conflicting traditions continue to matter despite heavy odds. Not so much a melting-pot as a “land of unlimited impossibilities,” Israel compresses a host of sights and lifestyles into a small area, offering a cornucopia of experiences for visitors. Preeminent among the attractions is Jerusalem. The Temple Mount area is the geographical heart of Judaism. The city has drawn Christian visitors, sometimes heavily armed, ever since the proclamation of the “Holy Land” and development of the first Christian sites for pilgrims in the fifth century. You’ll find that the Old City’s myriad colours, sounds, smells, and tastes stir the senses; the Temple Mount’s architecture can take your breath away; pilgrims tracing Christ’s journey to Calvary along the Via Dolorosa remain a deeply moving sight; and the views from the Mount of Olives are stunning. For Christians seeking spiritual refreshment, there are countless churches to visit, including the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Basilica of the Annunciation (in Nazareth), and the Church of the Nativity (in Bethlehem), just to mention the most famous. Muslims revere the sites on the Temple Mount: the Dome of the Rock and El-Aksa Mosque. Even when these sights are bustling with visitors you’re likely to find them compelling. However, Jerusalem is only a starting point — beyond the capital lie more visitor attractions per square mile than in any other country in the world, beckoning not only pilgrims, historians, and archaeologists, but also hikers, ornithologists, scuba-divers, windsurfers, and many others. Israel is so compact you can cram enough variety of activities into a week to satisfy almost every taste. Indeed, should you decide to go slow on culture, you’ll find Israel a splendid place for leisurely sun-worshipping. In recent years the country has begun to realise its considerable potential for beach-style tourism. The fast-paced metropolis of Tel Aviv boasts beautiful white sands, while other parts of the country have their own unique features. It is perfectly feasible to spend a fortnight in Eilat, exploring the Red Sea, lying on the beaches, journeying into the Negev Desert — and never see a religious building or an archaeological site. After an exhausting day on the go or at the beach, you can rest assured that you’ll be able to relax in comfortable hotels, hospices, and restaurants. Israelis are delighted that people from everywhere visit their country, and welcome you with genuine warmth. Nor are you likely to encounter a language problem, as English is taught in all schools and is widely spoken. It has been suggested that it’s impossible for any foreigner to understand the Israeli psyche. Possibly no other country has had such a turbulent history. Visits to Masada and Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Museum) may give you an inkling of the capacity for tragedy and heroism embodied in both that history and the modern State of Israel. Yet, despite all the displacement and suffering, the settlers of this land continue to be friendly and welcoming.