Jamaica and Its People T he island of Jamaica will be near the top of the list for anyone planning an idyllic holiday getaway. With warm sunshine, beautiful beaches, lush tropical scenery, and fine hotels, it is guaranteed to provide a little rest and relaxation. However, with a vibrant grassroots culture and the growing confidence of an independent nation, it defies the advertising stereotype of the “deserted island. ” Jamaica is not just a destination — it is an experience. The third-largest island in the Caribbean, just south of Cuba, Jamaica is 233 km (145 miles) in length and 83 km (52 miles) across at its widest point. The island is aligned almost east-to-west in the water so that sunrise wakes the eastern tip, proceeds to caress the length of the island, and kisses the western tip “good night. ” Geographically it is extremely diverse, with a central backbone of high mountains and hills blanketed with tropical rain-forest. These are surrounded by areas of limestone formations, scrub and grassland, coral cliffs, and fine sand beaches. Fresh water from tropical storms feeds 120 rivers and some of the most celebrated waterfalls and cascades on earth. On land, there is a wealth of animal and bird life. Rare species of butterflies and delicate hummingbirds take to the air, and crocodiles and manatees still live in and around vast tracts of mangrove swamp in the south. The island is surrounded by coral reefs and reef walls, which provide shelter to hundreds of species of sea creatures and recreation to divers and snorkelers. Temperatures here vary only a few degrees from about 27°C (80°F), although the heat is tempered by the nearly continuous trade winds that blow across the Atlantic. In the mountains and hills of the interior, the temperature drops with altitude and with the clouds that wrap around the highest peaks. Much of the land is extremely fertile and produces a range of tropical fruit and vegetable crops, providing ample food for the people and such lucrative cash crops as sugar and coffee. Four hundred years ago these crops brought British colonists to rule the land and African slaves to work it. The bitter taste of slavery is always in the background. Today’s Jamaican population is a mixture of African and English, with Spanish, Indian, and a smattering of Portuguese Jews, Germans, Welsh, and Scots. They have been melded together, giving rise to a fascinating national “identity. ” Since independence in 1962, the black majority has worked to create a country based on confidence from within, working on a principle of pride in oneself and in one’s roots. This is so important for the future of the country that the national motto is “Out of many — one people. ” It says much about the character of the Jamaican people that they have slightly changed the story of Columbus and his trip to the island in 1493. He is not held in the same high esteem here as he is in other islands. As someone has said, Columbus only thought that he had discovered Jamaica. In actuality, it was the population of Jamaica who discovered him — Columbus was really lost, thinking that he had found another route to Asia. Vestiges of the British colonial legacy can still be found, not least in the fact that English is Jamaica’s official language: the popularity of cricket is another example. The thirteen regional parishes and numerous towns were originally named after British settlements. You can find Manchester, Sheffield, and Cambridge in Jamaica, to name but three. However, these British influences have, even from the earliest days of colonial rule, always been tempered and molded to the Jamaican style. Jamaica has always had a second, “unofficial” language developed from the early days of slavery. This creole, a mixture of English, African, and Spanish words and phrases, is still evolving and often indecipherable to the outsider. Next to town names derived from England, you’ll also find names such as “Wait Awhile” and “Fruitful Vale,” derived from the function and activity of the everyday lives of ordinary Jamaicans. And as far as cricket is concerned, Caribbean players have turned the tables on their colonial mentors and now produce some of the best players in the world, easily capable of soundly outplaying the Brits. In recent years the influence of the United States has been much stronger than that of Britain. Many Jamaicans head to the States for further education, and the American economic influence on areas such as business investment and planning is growing. It’s no surprise that the US dollar is accepted as readily as the Jamaican dollar to pay for goods. But Jamaica is not simply turning blindly into a small version of its bigger brother. It still revels in its own identity, which is now internationally recognized through such influential cultural products as the Rastafarian religion and reggae music. The followers of Rastafarianism (with their characteristic mane of “dreadlocks”) originated in Jamaica in the 1930s and are still predominantly found here. Jamaican music — ska and, especially, reggae — has since the 1970s been exported and enjoyed around the world. The strong beat and earthy lyrics seem to symbolize and celebrate the character of this young and lively country. Jamaicans are sociable people, living their lives out in the open and knowing everything about their neighbor’s business. There’s nothing they like better than having a good chat about the latest bit of gossip: who is doing what, where, and why. They are very direct in their dealings with each other, as you might discover if you come across a friendly conversation among a group of friends. The loud, raucous Jamaican English dialect and the waving hands reflect the joy with which social relations are conducted here. They are equally direct in their dealings with visitors, too, so don’t expect a shy Jamaican smile as you walk by. Instead, be prepared for a barrage of questions about your life, offers to supply anything you need, a host of jokes at your expense, and some serious flirting if you’re single. Jamaicans can definitely be “in your face. ” But don’t feel intimidated, as their attitude is not personal. Having some lines ready to throw back at them induces guffaws of laughter and an appreciative slap on the back. The recreational pleasures that ordinary islanders enjoy have become synonymous with the name Jamaica: dancing to the heavily rhythmic musical beat; taking a little marijuana (or “ganja,” as it’s known here), which many Jamaicans view as a kind of medicinal herb; or simply sitting back and chatting with friends on a bench or street corner, where the situation is described as “Irie” — the equivalent of “Everything’s just fine! ” Jamaicans appear to worry little about the future; sometimes it seems that they worry little even about what happens in the next few minutes. The popular phrase “Soon come” indicates an apparent lack of concern about time and an unhurried attitude to daily tasks. Occasional hurricanes can spoil the idyllic climate and contribute to this “laid back” attitude: Jamaicans are aware that circumstances can suddenly alter dramatically and yet life will always carry on. To have to wait a while for something is not the worst problem in the world. Since independence in 1962, tourism has been Jamaica’s primary industry and the island has become renowned as one of the prime destinations in the Caribbean. The best beaches have become home to the finest hotels, which supply almost everything needed for the perfect vacation. All-inclusive packages and large resort hotels offer restaurants, sporting activities, entertainment, wide-screen sports channels in the bars, shopping, and a guaranteed suntan. There is frequently a temptation never to tear oneself away from the hotel. Yet to do this is to miss the very essence of what the island is all about. Step out of the hotel and your senses will be bombarded by a range of sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and textures that let you know that you could only be in Jamaica. Such sights include the colorful “tams” (knitted hats worn by Jamaican men to cover their mane of dreadlocks) and the red ackee fruit that ripens at the beginning of the year. Sample the taste of ackee cooked with saltfish, Jamaica’s national dish, and the smell of hot jerk pork cooked in a pit barbecue. Hear the songs of Bob Marley booming from a hundred cranked-up car stereos or the chorus of frogs that begin to call as evening descends. Feel the texture of a hand offered in greeting and try to fathom the “Jamaican handshake,” a ritual whose rules seem to be more complex than those of the game of cricket. Of course Jamaica has its palm-lined beaches and almost endless rum drinks, and you can enjoy a wonderful resort-based break. But once you begin to look underneath this initial veneer of a “do-nothing-in-the-tropics” holiday, it’s like peeling the layers of an onion. There’s an abundance of nature, history, art, and modern culture to be explored and enjoyed. Jamaica is an island with a strong personality that doesn’t simply wait in the wings. It comes out to meet you.