The Bahamas and the Bahamians
Like a handful of emeralds scattered across blue velvet, the verdant islands of the Commonwealth of the Bahamas stretch across 100,000 sq miles (259,000 sq km) of the Atlantic Ocean. The 700 islands and numerous smaller cays (pronounced “keys”) that comprise this semitropical archipelago start 55 miles (90 km) east of Palm Beach, Florida, and arc 600 miles (970 km) southeast toward eastern Cuba and Haiti, like a series of stepping stones linking North America with the Caribbean.
Some of the islands are only a few hundred square meters in size, but together they make up an area of 5,380 sq miles (14,000 sq km), slightly smaller than the area of the Hawaiian Islands. Only 100 of the islands are inhabited; many of these have become private playgrounds for the rich and super-rich. Even fewer — 37 to be exact — have settlements or towns. This leaves many hundreds of cays that are totally natural, untouched by the destructive influence of humans and offering pristine habitats to hundreds of bird and animal species.
The Bahamas islands are the flattened peaks of a huge ancient mountain range that once towered many thousands of feet into the sky. They now lie low in the water, the highest point — Mount Alvernia on Cat Island — being only 206 ft (65 m) above sea level. The eastern coastlines of the islands break the long tidal fetch that travels across the Atlantic; on the sheltered western coastline, coral outcrops have produced vast shallow sand banks that reflect waters of myriad translucent blues and greens.
Indeed, it was these characteristic shallow banks that gave the Bahamas islands their name. When Spanish explorers came to map the area in the 16th century, they named the area baja mar, or shallow seas, as a warning to the galleons that would be sailing through the waters. The name was later anglicized and the Bahamas were born.
The warning on Spanish maps unfortunately did little to stop ships from running aground or foundering on the treacherous shoals; even today treasure lost centuries ago is still being discovered and salvaged.
The islands of the Bahamas were claimed by the English, but hundreds of secret coves became home to pirates and smugglers who turned their backs on nationality to enter the brotherhood of buccaneers. They ruled the seas, plundering ships at will, and then spent their ill-gotten gains in the bars and brothels of Nassau town, the main settlement.
Later, as the English colonies of North America fought for independence, the islands became a refuge for fleeing loyalists who sought to make a new life on these remote, picturesque cays. Cotton production brought a number of slaves to the islands, but the crops proved to be poor and depleted the already weak soil. Sponge gathering was devastated after a fungus attacked the crop, and sisal was produced more cheaply in South America. The population eked out a living, but little more than that. Things changed in the 1920s, however, when the Bahamas profited from the American policy of Prohibition. Rum-running became a major industry, and well-to-do Americans began making the short trip to the Bahamas to be able to drink legally, and to indulge in other pleasures.
Since World War II, the Bahamas has worked hard to extend the service it provided during Prohibition and has turned itself into a “paradise” for holiday-makers. The dazzling beaches are covered with fine sand that ranges from bright white to pastel pink. The sun shines year-round, with temperatures ranging from the high 60s to the high 80s fahrenheit. To these natural ingredients have been added just about every amenity and service needed for the perfect holiday. Everything centers on New Providence, where most of the tourists stay and half of the Bahamian population lives. One of the largest cruise ports in the world, Nassau can accommodate 15 large ships at one time. English “pomp,” stout forts, and colonial houses attract history buffs. Grand Bahama, the second most populous island, has Freeport–Lucaya, Nassau’s younger, less genteel “American” cousin; nightlife here is more lavish and audacious than in Nassau. Both islands have large resort hotels that offer water-sports, floor shows, and casinos where you can enjoy the thrill of winning or the dejection of losing. Golf courses entice you to lower your handicap. Tour buses plow a path around the attractions, and duty-free shops tempt you to buy that little luxury item you’ve been denying yourself for so long. Hundreds of day-trippers cruise to both islands, eager to do it all before they have to get back on the boat.
On the smaller and more remote islands — called the Out Islands or Family Islands — intimate resorts cater to your every need and make it possible for you to forget about schedules, deadlines, and traffic jams. The most difficult decision you’ll have to make is what to pick from the extensive dinner menu. While the clubs and casinos may not play on into the night, during the day you’ll be worn out by walks along the beach and other strenuous activities, such as collecting sea shells, enjoying long lunches, and applying sunblock. The whole trip could prove to be exhausting!
The lure of the Bahamas is, of course, as much about the sea as it is about the land. The waters of the western Atlantic are still some of the clearest and most beautiful in the world. In summer the shallows are glassy still and range from azure blue to emerald green; the deep ocean channels reflect a deep blue that can best be appreciated from the air. The sandy shallows are ideal for swimming and snorkeling, and since the development of scuba (an acronym for self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) gear in the 1930s, the seas around the Bahamas have become a top destination for diving enthusiasts from around the world. 
The waters of the Bahamas support a vast range of life and contain 5 percent of the world’s coral. Diving around the reef surfaces and the vertical reef walls is complemented by many ship wrecks and artificial sites — large, concrete blocks which are placed on the sea bed to encourage coral growth — surrounding the islands. Fish species mass in the vast shallows along with urchins and starfish. Yet deep ocean channels cut between some island groups — the Tongue of the Ocean between Andros and New Providence, for example, is 6,000 ft (2,000 m) deep — and these provide a thoroughfare for a number of large fish and marine mammal species, such as sharks, rays, dolphins, and turtles.
This not only provides excitement for divers, who can watch shark feeding in the wild on some Bahamian islands, but also to fishermen. The vast numbers of large fish species, including record breaking marlin and bonefish, make for some of the most challenging and thrilling sport-fishing in the world.
On top of the water, the shallow channels and sheltered seas provide ideal waters for sailing and cruising. Hundreds of unmanned cays offer idyllic destinations and mooring points. The desert island you always dreamed about is somewhere in the Bahamas — the Exumas themselves have one cay for every day of year, and that is only one part of the vast Commonwealth. Many lie only a few hours sailing time from the hubbub of Nassau.
The Bahamian people are among the friendliest you’ll ever meet, and they are eager to share the homeland they love with visitors. The population is a fascinating mixture of descendants of the Loyalist settlers who left America after the American Revolution, freedom lovers who escaped religious persecution, and ex-slaves set free following emancipation. This mixture, which could have produced a society fraught with problems, has evolved into a gentle, sociable, and happy people, proud of their homeland and the progress they have made since independence in 1973. With a stable economy, good health, and no taxes, it’s no wonder that a smile comes naturally to all Bahamians. All the communities still have strong religious faith, the pretty churches are full on Sundays, and a conversation about some future event always ends with “…God willing” or “…with the Lord’s blessing.”
To make the most of your trip you’ll need to tune your mind to “Bahamian time.” On New Providence and Grand Bahama this may not be much slower than at home, but on the Out Islands, time definitely runs more slowly, and nothing is so important that it can’t wait a while. People are more important than to-do lists, so a leisurely exchange of greetings and an inquiry about your family’s well-being precedes any business activity. This genuine thoughtfulness also extends to visitors; someone will always go out of their way to be helpful, in ways that have been lost in more developed locations.
Every island has its own individual character, forged by a unique history and development, in fact the Bahamas could be said to be several different holiday experiences in one country, so it’s important to choose your island carefully to get the kind of holiday you want.