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The ability to taste food is a life-and-death matter. Failure to recognise food with a
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high enough caloric content could mean a slow death from malnutrition. Failure to detect a
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poison could result in near-instant expiration. And now, as researchers begin to understand
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some of the nuts and bolts of taste perception, it seems that the sense of taste may also
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have more subtle effects on health.
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The Basics of Taste
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At the front line of the taste sensory system are the taste buds—onion-shaped structures
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on the tongue and elsewhere in the mouth (Figure 1). Up to 100 taste receptor
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cells—epithelial cells with some neuronal properties—are arranged in each taste bud. In the
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tongue, the taste buds are innervated by the chorda tympani (a branch of the facial nerve)
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and the glossopharyngeal nerve. These nerves carry the taste messages to the brain.
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Taste is the sense by which the chemical qualities of food in the mouth are
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distinguished by the brain, based on information provided by the taste buds. Quality or
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‘basic taste’, explains Bernd Lindemann, now retired but an active taste researcher in
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Germany for many years, is a psychophysical term. Large numbers of people describe
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different tastants and then statistical analyses are used to define the important tastes.
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‘The number of taste qualities has varied over the years’, says Lindemann. ‘We are now
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settling at around five, though I would not be surprised if some additional qualities pop
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up’.
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The five qualities that Lindemann refers to are salty, sour, bitter, sweet, and umami,
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the last being the Japanese term for a savoury sensation. Salty and sour detection is
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needed to control salt and acid balance. Bitter detection warns of foods containing
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poisons—many of the poisonous compounds produced by plants for defence are bitter. The
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quality sweet provides a guide to calorie-rich foods. And umami (the taste of the amino
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acid glutamate) may flag up protein-rich foods. Our sense of taste has a simple goal,
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explains Lindemann: ‘Food is already in the mouth. We just have to decide whether to
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swallow or spit it out. It's an extremely important decision, but it can be made based on a
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few taste qualities’.
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From Physiology to Molecular Biology
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Taste has been actively researched for many decades. During the 20th century,
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electrophysiologists and other researchers worked hard to understand this seemingly simple
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sense system. Then, in 1991, the first olfactory receptors were described. These proteins,
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which are exposed on the surface of cells in the nose, bind to volatile chemicals and allow
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us to detect smells. This landmark discovery, in part, encouraged many established taste
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researchers to investigate the molecular aspects of taste.
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The olfaction results also enticed researchers from other disciplines into the taste
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field, including collaborators Charles Zuker (University of California, San Diego [UCSD],
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La Jolla, California, United States) and Nick Ryba (National Institute of Dental and
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Craniofacial Research [NIDCR], Bethesda, Maryland, United States). About six years ago,
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explains Zuker, who previously worked on other sensory systems in flies, ‘there was a
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disconnect between our understanding of sensations in the case of photoreception,
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mechanoreception, touch, and so on and what we knew about taste’. There was evidence, says
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Ryba, that a class of protein receptors called G-protein-coupled receptors (GPCRs) were
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involved in sweet and bitter taste, ‘but the receptors weren't known, so we started to look
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for them …. These molecules are intrinsically interesting, but more importantly, they
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provide tools with which we can dissect out how taste works’.
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Bitter, Sweet, and Umami Receptors
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The bitter receptors fell first to the onslaught of the UCSD–NIDCR team and other
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molecular biologists. In 1999, the ability to taste propylthiouracil, a bitter tasting
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compound, had been linked to a locus on human Chromosome 5p15. Reasoning that this
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variation might be due to alterations in the coding sequence for a bitter receptor, the
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UCSD–NIDCR researchers used the draft of the human genome to search for sequences that
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resembled GPCRs on Chromosome 5p15. ‘That was how we found T2R1, the first bitter receptor,
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and, subsequently, a whole family of T2Rs’, says Zuker.
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Researchers want to know: how is taste coded?
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All these receptors, says Zuker, are coexpressed in bitter taste receptor cells, a
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result that contradicts other research showing that different bitter-responsive cells react
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to different bitter molecules. ‘To me’, says Zuker, ‘it makes sense that all the bitter
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receptors would be expressed in each bitter taste cell. We just need to know if something
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is bitter to avoid death’, not the exact identity of the bitter tastant.
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The sweet receptor story started in 1999 with the identification of two putative
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mammalian taste receptors, GPCRs now known as T1R1 and T1R2. In early 2001, four groups
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reported an association between the mouse
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Sac locus, which determines the ability of mice to detect saccharin, and
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T1R3, a third member of the T1R family. The UCSD–NIDCR team subsequently showed that the
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T1R2 and T1R3 heterodimer (a complex of one T1R2 and one T1R3 molecule) forms a broadly
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tuned sweet receptor, responsive to natural sugars and artificial sweeteners, and that a
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homodimer of two T1R3 molecules forms a low-affinity sugar receptor that responds to high
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concentrations of natural sugars only. All sweet detection, concludes Zuker, is via the
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T1R2 and T1R3 receptors.
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And umami? A truncated glutamate receptor was identified as an umami receptor by
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researchers at the University of Miami (Florida, United States) School of Medicine in 2000.
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Zuker, however, believes that the one and only umami receptor is a heterodimer of T1R1 and
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T1R3. In October 2003, Zuker and his coworkers reported that mice in which either T1R1 or
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T1R3 has been knocked out show no preference for monosodium glutamate (MSG), an umami
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tastant. However, other researchers reported in August 2003 that T1R3 knockouts retain some
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preference for MSG. ‘We believe this is due either to the truncated glutamate receptor or
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another unknown receptor’, says lead author Sami Damak (Mount Sinai School of Medicine, New
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York, New York, United States). Damak says he does not know why the two sets of T1R3
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knockout mice behaved differently, but the UCSD–NIDCR researchers suggest that the residual
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response to MSG seen by Damak et al. is a response to the sodium content of MSG. Damak is
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not alone, however, in thinking there may be more than one umami receptor (and additional
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sweet receptors).
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Commenting on these recent discoveries, taste expert Linda Bartoshuk (Yale University
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School of Medicine, New Haven, Connecticut, United States) says that ‘it is lovely to see
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all these details, especially as they confirm what we already believed conceptually’. For
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example, she says, it is no surprise that there are many bitter receptors but probably only
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one sweet receptor. ‘There are so many poisons and it makes perfect sense to have lots of
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receptors feeding into a common transduction pathway. Sweet is a different problem. In
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nature, there are many molecules with structures similar to sugar that we must not eat
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because we cannot metabolise them. So I would have predicted one or at most a few highly
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specific sweet receptors’.
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What about Salty and Sour Receptors?
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The salty and sour receptors may be very different from the GPCRs involved in bitter,
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sweet, and umami perception, which bind complex molecules on the outside of the cell and
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transmit a signal into the cell. For salty and sour perception, the taste cell only needs
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to detect simple ions. One way to do this may be to use ion channels—proteins that form a
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channel through which specific inorganic ions can diffuse. Changes in cellular ion
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concentrations could then be detected and transmitted to the nervous system.
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Physiologist John DeSimone (Virginia Commonwealth University, Richmond, Virginia, United
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States) says there are at least two ion channel receptors for salt in rodent taste receptor
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cells. The first of these is the epithelial sodium channel, a widely expressed channel that
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can be blocked specifically with the drug amiloride. In rats, says DeSimone, only 75% of
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the nerve response to salt can be blocked by amiloride, so there is probably a second
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receptor. This, he says, seems to be a generalist salt receptor—the amiloride-sensitive
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channel only responds to sodium chloride—and may be the more important receptor in
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people.
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Sour tastants are acids, often found in spoiled or unripe food. DeSimone's current idea
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is that strong acids enter taste cells through a proton channel (probably a known channel
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present on other cell types) while weak acids, like acetic acid (vinegar), enter as neutral
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molecules and then dissociate to lower intracellular pH. DeSimone believes that he has
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identified the proton channel involved in sour taste as well as an ion channel that could
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be the second salt receptor, and he plans to do knockout experiments on both. If these
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channels are essential elsewhere in the body, as DeSimone suspects, to avoid lethality he
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will need to construct conditional knockouts in which the channel is lost only in the taste
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receptor cells.
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Zuker, meanwhile, is not convinced that the current ion channel candidates for salt and
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sour perception are correct. And, he says, GPCRs could also be involved in these
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modalities. ‘There is a precedent for that’, he claims, noting that extracellular calcium
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is sensed by a GPCR.
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Taste-Coding
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With many taste receptors now identified, researchers are turning to a long-standing
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question in taste perception: how is taste coded? When we eat, our tongue is bombarded with
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tastants. How is their detection and transduction of information organised so that the
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appropriate response is elicited? Taste physiologist Sue Kinnamon (Colorado State
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University, Fort Collins, Colorado, United States) explains the two theories of
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taste-coding. In the ‘labelled-line’ model, sweet-sensitive cells, for example, are hooked
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up to sweet-sensitive nerve fibres that go to the brain and code sweet. If you stimulate
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that pathway, says Kinnamon, ‘you should elicit the appropriate behavioural response
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without any input from other cell types’. In the ‘cross-fibre’ model, the pattern of
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activity over many receptors codes taste. This model predicts that taste receptor cells are
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broadly tuned, responding to many tastants. Support for this theory, says Kinnamon, comes
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from electrical recordings from receptor cells and from nerves innervating the taste buds
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that show that one cell can respond to more than one taste quality.
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Zuker and Ryba's recent work strongly suggests that taste-coding for bitter, sweet, and
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umami fits the labelled-line model in the periphery of the taste system. Their expression
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data show that receptors for these qualities are expressed in distinct populations of taste
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cells. In addition, in early 2003, they reported that, as in other sensory systems, a
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single signalling pathway involving the ion channel TRPM5 and PLCβ2, a phospholipase that
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produces a TRPM5 activator, lies downstream of the bitter, sweet, and umami receptors. When
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the UCSD–NIDCR researchers took PLCβ2 knockout mice, which did not respond to bitter,
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sweet, or umami, and engineered them so that PLCβ2 was only expressed in bitter
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receptor-expressing cells, only the ability to respond to bitter tastants was regained.
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These data, says Zuker, support the labelled-line model.
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The latest data supporting the labelled-line model came last October when Zuker and
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colleagues described mice in which a non-taste receptor—a modified κ-opioid receptor that
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can only be activated by a synthetic ligand—was expressed only in cells expressing T1R2,
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sweet-responsive cells. The mice were attracted to the synthetic ligand, which they
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normally ignore, indicating that dedicated pathways mediate attractive behaviours. The
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researchers plan similar experiments to see whether the same is true for aversive
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behaviours.
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Even with all these molecular data, the cross-fibre model of taste-coding still has its
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supporters—just how many depends on whom one talks to. Both Damak and Kinnamon, for
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example, believe that there is at least some involvement of cross-fibre patterning even in
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the taste receptor cells. But, says neurobiologist and olfaction expert Lawrence C. Katz
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(Duke University, Durham, North Carolina, United States), ‘the onus is now on people who
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believe otherwise [than the labelled-line model] to provide compelling proof for the
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cross-fibre theory because now, at least at the periphery, the evidence is compelling for a
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labelled line for bitter, sweet, and umami’. Bartoshuk also says the debate is decided in
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favour of the labelled-line model in the periphery. The crossfibre model is an interesting
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historical footnote, she comments.
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Whether this putative link between taste perception and health can be confirmed and
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whether it will be possible to manipulate food preferences to improve health remain to be
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seen. However, it seems certain that, as in the past five years, the next five years will
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see large advances in our knowledge of many aspects of taste, a fascinating and important
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sensory system.
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What Next—and Why Study Taste Anyway?
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The periphery of the taste sensory system has yielded many of its secrets, but
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relatively little is known about the transduction pathways in taste, how taste cells talk
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to the nervous system, or about events further downstream in the brain. How are signals
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from taste receptors integrated with those from olfactory receptors to form a
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representation of complex food flavours, for example? With their expanding molecular
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toolbox, researchers can now delve deeper into these aspects of taste perception. This may
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tell us not only about taste but about how the nervous system in general is put together,
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says Ryba.
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But understanding taste is not just an academic exercise. It has practical uses too.
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DeSimone suggests that by understanding salt receptors, it may be possible to design
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artificial ligands to help people lower their salt intake. As Kinnamon succinctly puts it,
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‘Can you imagine eating potato chips and not having the salty component?’ An artificial
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salt receptor ligand could make salt-free foods a palatable option for people with high
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blood pressure. Lindemann also sees a great future in artificial ligands for taste
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receptors. The sense of taste is partly lost in elderly people, he says, so better
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tastants—effectively ‘chemical spectacles’—might give them back their pleasure of eating
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and thereby improve their quality of life.
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Finally, some aspects of taste may be inextricably tied up with general health, says
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Bartoshuk. Many people who can taste propylthiouracil are also ‘supertasters’—they have
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more fungiform papillae, structures containing taste buds, on their tongues than
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non-tasters (Figure 2). Supertasters find vegetables bitter—particularly brassicas, like
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Brussel sprouts—so they tend to eat fewer vegetables as part of their regular diet than
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non-tasters. ‘Being a supertaster affects your taste preferences, your diet, and ultimately
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your health’, claims Bartoshuk.
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