Algarve-WhereToGo.txt

Where to Go
The Algarve stretches from the Atlantic Ocean to Spain, but it’s actually a small region. Faro, the capital, is just 50 km (30 miles) from the Spanish border, and it is only 112 km (70 miles) west of what was known in medieval times as o fim do mundo (the end of the world) at Sagres. Along this 160-km (100-mile) coastal strip, resorts and holiday villages of all stripes have sprung up, so wherever you are based, you’ll never be far from a good beach, a reasonably sized town, village, or resort, shops, and nightlife.
The following pages cover the Algarve traveling west to east, though you could certainly do the reverse or begin in the center, near Faro (or anywhere you elect to stay) and embark on day trips both east and west from there. For those with additional time and interest in seeing more of Portugal, a brief section on the Portuguese capital Lisbon and its seductive environs is included. Lisbon is about four hours by car (and 40 minutes by plane) from Faro; it should be conceived as an add-on to your visit to the Algarve rather than a day trip. Many people visit the Algarve by flying into Lisbon and driving to the southern coast. If you are flying directly to the international airport at Faro and wish to spend a few days in the Lisbon area, it would make sense to see about a return flight from there.
World’s End: Sagres and Cabo de São Vicente
If you begin your journey at Sagres, you may be in for a shock. The hardscrabble town and area around it scarcely look the part of a fabled beach resort with a Mediterranean feel. Rather, it is remote, rugged and desert-like, with only a relative smattering (compared to the rest of the Algarve) of hotels, restaurants, and other facilities aimed at tourists. It is like the Algarve’s outpost, which is precisely why it has so many admirers.
Sagres’s connections to the sea, and Portugal’s maritime exploits, are strong. Prince Henry the Navigator established his Navigation School here (though some protest that it was farther east, near Lagos). The town has a picturesque working harbor, where small, brightly painted fishing boats bob, and larger vessels haul in daily catches of lobster, eel, and mackerel. A couple of restaurants are clustered around the harbor, with impressive views. Inland, a cute little square, Praça República, is ringed by informal (and, in summer, hopping) nightspots.
The best beaches near Sagres are sheltered and not overcrowded. Mareta, down below the government pousada, is the most popular. Martinhal, just east of the harbor, is a wide, curved beach with a first-class watersports center. Beliche (also spelled Belixe) is a sandy expanse protected by the Cape of St. Vincent. Tonel, just before Beliche, and Telheiro, about 9 km (6 miles) up the west coast from Sagres, are also well-regarded beach spots.
Beyond the village of Sagres, a great, rocky peninsula hangs above a brooding ocean. You’ll understand why, in the days before the great Portuguese explorers set out from here seeking to discover the great beyond, it was known as the End of the World. Those wishing to put a positive spin on things called it Sacrum Saturni — Holy Promontory — and believed that the gods slept here.
Since time immemorial this forlorn place has stirred the imagination. It stirred Henry and his sailors, who are said to have set up camp at the Fortaleza de Sagres (Fortress) that sits on the promontory. Unfortunately, not much of the original has survived. Most of it is a 17th-century fort that was insensitively restored. In 1991, the walls of this nationally important monument were resurfaced with gray concrete, destroying the external character of the building. The fortress’s principal building, which may have been Henry’s headquarters, has been demolished. What you’ll find inside is a small 16th-century chapel, Nossa Senhora da Graça, and what looks to be a huge stone sun dial, known as the Rosa dos Ventos (Rose Compass). Whether, in fact, it was a wind compass useful in the great voyages is unknown. A modern shell on the fort’s grounds houses an exhibition area.
A couple of km (one mile) west of Sagres are the more authentic remains of another fortress, Fortaleza do Beliche. This small, attractive 17th-century castle houses a white, domed chapel (Santa Catarina) and is home to a smart traditional-style restaurant and a small annex to the pousada in Sagres. Both the fort and chapel, however, threaten to collapse because the surrounding cliffs are eroding at a frightening rate. Efforts to shore up the cliffs and save the historic site have recently been undertaken.
The windswept cliffs of Cabo de São Vicente, the most southwesterly point in Europe, were once surely even more bleak than they are today, when supertankers and small yachts heave into view around the cape. But even on the calmest of days, the Atlantic thunders below and the wind whips around the cape. At the tip of the point, the lighthouse, built in 1904 on the site of a convent chapel, has a beam visible up to 96 km (60 miles) away. Visitors can climb the stairs to a hot, enclosed lookout.
The first settlement of any size outside Sagres is Vila do Bispo, 7 km (4 miles) to the north. Take a break in the peaceful town’s pleasant, flower-filled garden square and pay a visit to the 18th-century parish church. The walls are covered with azulejos and its ceiling decorated with frescoes.
About halfway between Sagres and Lagos, Salema is regarded as an up-and-coming resort of this stretch, with a lively sprinkling of bars and restaurants, a pleasant beach with fishing boats, and a market.
Burgau, 3.2 km (2 miles) east, is small and sleepy. Fishing boats pulled up onto the end of the road leading down to the beach jostle with cars. The beach here is less attractive than those at neighboring Luz or Salema, but the small village retains its easygoing character.
Luz is a pleasant seaside town. All that remains of old Luz is the church and, opposite, the fortress, which has been attractively renovated and converted into a restaurant. There is a good beach with watersports facilities and large, flat rocks where vacationers bask in the sun like lizards.
Lagos
Lagos, the principal resort of the western Algarve, is the rare beach town that offers something for everyone. By night Lagos is lively, with outdoor restaurant terraces and bars attracting a hipper crowd than most resorts on the coast, and by day it combines a rich historical past with a busy present. Attractive beaches are just on the outskirts of town, so it is not a classic resort in the mold of Praia da Rocha.
Your first view of Lagos will probably be from the long, riverside Avenida dos Descobrimentos, which divides the old walled city from the port. At the other end of the avenue, the well-restored fortress, Forte da Ponte da Bandeira, once guarded the entrance to the harbor in the 17th century. Cross the river to see busy fishermen, handsome boats anchored in the marina, and the fine view of the city above the walls. Many of the streets rising towards the top of town are narrow, cobbled, and more accustomed to donkeys than rental cars. Though Lagos town still retains a good part of its original walls — most of them from the 16th century, but part-Roman in places — they have been rebuilt and expanded over the centuries. Climb the ramparts for fine views over the port and out to sea.
Lagos was an important trading port under the Moors, but the town enjoyed its heyday after the Reconquest. It was proclaimed the capital of the Algarve, and the governor’s palace became the headquarters of Prince Henry. A formal statue of Henry, seated with sextant in hand, has been erected on a plaza (Praça Dom Henrique) next to the main avenue. Arguments persist over the exact whereabouts of the prince’s School of Navigation, but it seems almost certain that Lagos was the principal shipyard and port serving his team of explorers.
Those were glory years, but some of what was glorious in those heady times today seems reprehensible. Explorations along the west coast of Africa in the mid-15th century established a flourishing slave trade, and Lagos was a key player in human commerce. Just behind the statue of Henry, on the corner of Rua da Senhora da Graça, you can still see the small arcade where Portugal’s first slave auctions took place. A small plaque states simply Mercado de Escravos (Slave Market). Most other historic buildings around the square succumbed to the devastating earthquake of 1755 (see page 18). The majority of the city’s attractive buildings thus date from the late 18th and 19th centuries.
On Rua General Alberta da Silveira, the tiny chapel Igreja de Santo António, an exuberant gilt Baroque work and one of the Algarve’s finest churches, was rebuilt soon after the earthquake. The church, a national monument dedicated to St. Anthony, has a handsome display of 18th-century blue-and-white glazed tiles and a brightly painted wood ceiling. In the floor you’ll find the tomb of an Irish colonel, Hugh Beatty, a soldier of fortune who commanded the Lagos regiment of the Portuguese army in the late 18th century, and who must have been held in very high esteem to have been awarded such a prestigious final resting place.
The entrance to the church is actually through the curious and eclectic museum next door, Museu Regional de Lagos. Rooms display sacred art, archaeological remains, the original charter of Lagos, holy vestments, and a bizarre collection of creatures, like a science experiment gone bad: an eight-legged goat kid preserved in formaldehyde, a one-eyed sheep, a cat with two faces.
The main street of Lagos is the charming, cobbled Rua 25 de Abril, packed with restaurants, bars, and antiques and ceramics shops. The side streets hold some good art (and craft) galleries and plenty of rewards for exploration. The square at the end of 25 de Abril holds a curious statue, which some liken to an extraterrestrial, of the boy-king Sebastião. In 1568 Sebastian became king of Portugal at age 14. A decade later he embarked on a disastrous voyage to Morocco to fight the Moors. At least 7,000 troops died, the king included (though many refused to believe he had perished, and Elvis-like sightings were common).
The beaches near Lagos range from Meia Praia, 1.6 km (1 mile) to the east, a long (4 km/21/2 mile) flat stretch, to pocket-sized coves just west of the city. Weird and wonderful rock formations, and steep cliffs that glow orange at sunset, have made them some of the most photographed in Europe; head for Praia de Dona Ana and Praia do Camilo, both small, pretty and crowded (street signs indicate the way to each).
At the southern tip, just before it turns west to Sagres, are the coast’s most spectacular sights. Ponta da Piedade (Point of Piety) is the mother of all stack and cliff formations along the Algarve, a stunning terracotta family of bridges, terraces, and grottoes. There is no beach here, but there are great views from above, and in season (spring to autumn) boat trips depart from the foot of the long stairways that have been cut deep into the sides of the cliff.
For a complete change of scenery, take a drive northwest towards the hills and Bensafrim. Here you can enjoy the Algarve of yesteryear and rolling undeveloped countryside, where people still live off the land. The tilled soil, a startling ochre color, makes a colorful backdrop for orange and lemon groves. Turn off towards the Barragem da Bravura, a dam, and you’ll be rewarded with a sight every bit as inspiring as its name. This water, more akin to the English Lake District than sunny southern Europe, is also of great practical use, irrigating crops, including rice, around Lagos. A new road connects with the old EN 125 route and will undoubtedly open up this relatively undeveloped area.
portimão and environs
Portimão, second in size only to Faro in the Algarve, is the most workmanlike town on the coast. But nestled around it are some of the Algarve’s finest beaches, and that has transformed the area into one of the coast’s most popular resorts. Praia da Rocha and Praia Três Irmãos in particular are lined with hotels and beach-goers. Most vacationers stay along this stretch.
Portimão sits at the confluence of the River Adade and the sea, and most of its local color is down by the port, a haven of fishing activity. The top fish-canning spot on the Algarve, Portimão is renowned for its restaurants specializing in sardinhas grelhadas (grilled sardines). Though the town was settled by the Romans, it was one of the Algarve towns most damaged from the earthquake of 1755, and as a consequence has few buildings or monuments of historical interest. Largo 1° de Dezembro is a 19th-century addition, a park with 10 splendid blue-and-white azulejo benches, each illustrating a pivotal event in the history of Portugal. The park’s name alludes to the date, 1 December 1640, when Portugal’s independence from Spain was restored (see page 18).
Much of the town center is pedestrian-only and filled with shops. The main square, at Rua do Comércio and Avenida São João de Deus, is where you’ll find the large and austere Colégio dos Jesuítas (Jesuit College). The church, constructed at the end of the 17th century, is the largest on the Algarve.
Across the plaza is the old market building, now used for temporary art exhibitions. Around the corner, along Rua Machado dos Santos, is the handsome Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, sitting atop a small hill and incline of steps. The yellow-and-white church, originally constructed in the 15th century, has a beautiful Gothic portico with carved capitals, but looks like a colonial church you might find in Brazil, due to its reconstruction and remodeling in the 18th and 19th centuries.
From the center of town, head to the waterfront, especially if it’s anywhere near time for lunch or dinner. You can almost follow your nose toward the heady aroma of grilled sardines. It will take you to the dockside, lined with simple restaurants, one after the other, all serving delicious, smoky sardines (and other fresh-caught fish). Choose whichever spot seems to be bustling with ravenous patrons. A plate of grilled sardines, prawns, or squid and a bottle of house wine make a fantastic meal, and the prices are about as low as anywhere along the coast.
The hectic operations of the fishing industry used to take place here right under the noses of vacationers, with a frenetic “bucket-brigade” hauling wicker baskets of fresh fish up from the boat holds to ice trays and waiting trucks, right next to dockside dining tables. The fishermen have now been pushed to a larger location on the other side of the river, but most sightseeing boats that tour the harbor and nearby grottoes include a quick trip to the new docks. You will still see fishing boats at anchor on the main quay, but the majority of river traffic here now is private yachts, replica sailing ships on tourist excursions, and tiny dinghies.
Portimão’s other claim to local fame is as a comprehensive regional shopping center. There is certainly a good variety of shopping here, including many international names, as well as outlets selling traditional crafts or locally made items. A market is often set up in the square opposite the Colégio dos Jesuítas.
Just 3 km (2 miles) down river from Portimão is Praia da Rocha, which became a holiday village for wealthy Portuguese families back at the end of the 19th century. It was “discovered” by the British in the 1930s, when this “beach of rocks,” strewn with extravagantly shaped eroded stacks, provided an inspirational refuge for writers and intellectuals. The belle époque Hotel Bela Vista is a living monument from those days.
Today the long, 2-km (1.3 -mile) golden beach is still the main attraction, but the once-small village fronting the beach has been swamped by a sea of hotels and tourist facilities. Vestiges of the village’s former grandeur can still be traced along the front, where grand old buildings jostle uncomfortably with high-rise blocks. The sprawl, an uncomfortable update of Mallorca’s Playa de Palma, has entirely blurred Praia da Rocha’s separate identity from Portimão.
At the very eastern end of the resort, guarding the River Arade, is the Fortaleza de Santa Catarina de Ribamar (St. Catherine’s Fortress), built in 1621 to defend Silves and Portimão against the Moors. Little remains of the actual fortress, but its courtyard is now an agreeable terrace where you can enjoy a drink and watch the sardine fleet returning to port. Directly across from the fort is the splendid, beige-colored Fortaleza de Ferragudo (closed to the public), which looks like a giant sandcastle.
The old fishing village of Ferragudo nearby is well worth a visit. Despite its proximity to a main tourist enclave, and two excellent beaches of its own, it has resisted blatant commercialization, remaining a traditional fishermen’s settlement. The opposite end of Praia da Rocha’s long stretch is known as Praia do Vau. The splendid rock formations and coves continue, but this end of the beach is quieter and less developed than the eastern end.
Just west, Praia de Três Irmãos is the slightly upscale beach cousin of Praia da Rocha. The eastern end of the beach is a beautiful cove, hemmed in by cliffs and ochre rocks. Beyond it, the beach stretches to Alvor, a classic Algarvian fishermen’s village. Narrow cobbled streets plunge downhill to a quay and market where boats bob at anchor on a wide, marshy lagoon. A handful of tascas and bars rustle up barbecued sardines. At the top of the hill, on Rua da Igreja, is Igreja Matriz, a charming 16th-century church, with a delicately carved Manueline portico, perhaps the finest on the Algarve, and excellent 18th-century azulejos in the chancel. A large white-sand beach is the main focus of a recreational area that includes a golf course and a casino.
Between Alvor and EN 125, the main coastal road, are the Abicada ruins of a Roman village that dates to the 4th century a.d.
North of Portimão, and extending across the western half of the province, is the Serra de Monchique, a mountain range that protects the coast from the hot plains farther north. The serra is a verdant landscape of cork, pine, and chestnut trees, and low-lying areas are covered in wildflowers.
Two spots in the serra popular with visitors are Monchique and Caldas de Monchique (two separate villages). The highest point is Fóia. The first stop on the scenic journey along route 266 is the spa village of Caldas de Monchique, known since Roman times for its therapeutic waters. Its heyday was the Edwardian era, and many of the elegant buildings (including a casino and a handicrafts market) still date from this period. An air of nostalgia has long presided over this sleepy hollow, but a massive renovation program, still being completed in late 2000, signals the local desires for widening its tourist appeal. Look for at least five newly renovated hotels, restaurants, and other facilities to augment the usual shops in the very near future.
In the meantime, Caldas de Monchique is a good place for a picnic and a stroll in the woods. The local waters are bottled and for sale across the Algarve.
North of Caldas, the road weaves uphill quickly, rising 300 m (1,000 ft) in 5 km (3 miles) past terraced farmlands and forests of eucalyptus, oak, and cork. Monchique is a small market town, known for its handicrafts and the famous Manueline portico of its 16th-century Igreja Matriz. The beautiful, uncommon church has Romanesque arches, stone columns, blue-and-yellow azulejos, and a handsome wood ceiling. If you poke around town, you’ll probably see artisans crafting shoes and pounding out walking sticks in closet-sized workshops.
High above the town, the ruins of a 17th-century convent, Nossa Senhora do Desterro, loom like a ghostly gray eminence. Closed to the public, it has apparently been seized by squatters, who’ve done little towards its upkeep other than festoon it with “Private–Family” and “Family Dog” signs.
The road continues upwards, passing roadside souvenir and fruit vendors, and a few well-placed miradouro restaurants. At the end of the line is Fóia, almost 915 m (3,000 ft) above sea level, affording one of the best views in southern Portugal. There is no settlement here, just a collection of craft and souvenir stalls, a bar, a restaurant, and an obelisk marking the highest point on the Algarve. On a clear day you can see from the bay of Portimão to the Sagres peninsula, and pick out the rocky outcrops of the Lagos beaches.
Although you may welcome a breeze after the heat of the coast, the wind blows pretty briskly at Fóia, so you’ll need a jacket or sweater. Don’t worry if you’ve forgotten to bring one; the best buys among the souvenirs here are chunky hand-knitted cardigans and pullovers.
Silves
Back down the main road toward Portimão, a turn-off to Silves leads to the former Moorish capital of the Algarve. More than eight centuries ago, Silves (then known as Chelb) was a magnificent city with palaces, gardens, bazaars, and a huge red castle on a hill. Granada had the Alhambra, the legendary palace of the Moors, but the Algarve also possessed a city straight out of Arabian Nights.
The golden age of Silves began in a.d. 711 with the Moslem invasion. With redoubtable fortifications and a population in the tens of thousands, it was one of the strongest outposts in 12th-century Arab Iberia. The Crusaders attacked and took the city in 1189, only to see it recovered by the Moors two years later. A half-decade later, the Christian Reconquest captured Silves for good. However, the loss of Arabic wealth and the silting up of the River Arade left Silves almost literally high and dry, and by the time the bishopric of the Algarve was transferred to Faro in 1577, the town’s population had dwindled to 140.
Its riches were stolen long ago, the once-great river is a silted shadow of its former self, and Silves is now just a dusty backwater, but the glorious setting remains. Surmounted by its red fortress, the white town climbs the hillside from the river, its medieval bridge still intact. The old city inside the gates still evokes the layout of the Jewish quarter and almedina of the Moors.
Though a castle of sorts Silves has existed here since Phoenician times, the present Castelo dos Mouros, on the site of Roman or Visigothic foundations, took shape after the Reconquest, though it preserves distinctly Moorish lines. Oleander and jacaranda soften its bellicose nature, and there are fine views over the tiled roofs of the town and surrounding countryside. A long-destroyed “Palace of Verandas” once existed within the castle; today you can see only a deep well (60 m/200 ft).
Next to the castle is the impressive Gothic Sé Velha (Old Cathedral) of Silves, built by the liberating Crusaders, some of whom are buried within, in the 13th century. The remains of a Moorish mosque are hidden behind the altar. Opposite the Sé is the 16th-century Igreja da Misericórdia, with a classic Manueline-style side door.
Wander down to the main square, the Praça do Municipio. The imposing Torreão da Porta da Cidade (Turret of the City Gate) gives you a good idea of how seriously defense of the city was taken. This sturdy, warlike structure now houses the peaceful municipal library (open to the public). Close by, on Rua das Portas de Loulé, is a modern Museu Municipal (archaeology museum). Here you can see part of a large Arab water cistern and other local finds.
The hills around Silves are a prosperous farming region; figs, oranges, lemons, grapefruit, clementines, and pomegranates are grown in abundance in mile after mile of orchards.
Just outside the city, on the road to São Bartolomeu de Messines (route N124), is an important 16th-century religious sculpture. Known as the Cruz de Portugal (Cross of Portugal), it depicts the crucifixion of Christ on one face and the descent from the cross on the other. Some speculate that the cross was given to the city upon the transfer of João II’s remains to Batalha. The small, weather-beaten 3-m (9-ft) statue, easily missed, is really only of interest to aficionados of religious art.
If you are traveling by car, continue to the Barragem (dam) do Arade. The water collected in this reservoir surrounded by pine hills provides irrigation for the area’s profitable orchards. It’s a refreshing spot, perfect for a picnic as well as sailing and windsurfing.
Lagoa, a sizeable town east of Portimão, is the province’s wine capital. The acidic vinhos da casa served in most restaurants on the Algarve come from here. Lagoa wine, both red and white, is more powerful than ordinary wine, and the extra degree or two of alcoholic content can creep up on you. The local tourist office can arrange tours of wineries and tastings (Adega de Cooperativa de Lagoa; Tel. [phone]; 24 hours in advance). New golf courses are being built in the area, but there’s little else to detain visitors.
From Lagoa, turn south about 5 km (3 miles) to the charming resort of Carvoeiro, an archetypal small Barlavento resort. The beach is about the size of a tablecloth compared with some of the expanses to the east. A single road runs down through a pretty valley until it comes to a small crescent of sand shared by families of sunbathers and fishing boats. Above, rows of bright white houses perch on red sandstone cliffs while cafés and restaurants fill the spaces in between. The original village of Carvoeiro is now fairly commercialized, but to many people it remains one of the coast’s most attractive resorts.
A narrow road follows the cliffs eastwards to the geological curiosity of Algar Seco (“dry gully”). Among other weird and wonderful shapes, wind and wave erosion have created a double-decker stone arch. There are walkways down to a lagoon enclosed by menacing rocks, and if weather conditions are calm, this open-air grotto is a paradise for snorkelers.
Continue east and you will find three more beaches whose relative isolation has thus far protected them from development. They are (heading east) Vale de Centianes, Praia do Carvalho, and Praia de Benagil. The last one in particular is superb, and is approached down a vertiginous road flanked by massive cliffs.
Back inland, just off the main road, is the attractive little village of Porches, with some classic, white Algarvian houses and filigreed chimneys. Porches is famous throughout Portugal for its hand-painted pottery, though you won’t find much in the village itself. The shops of greatest renown are along the EN 125 route. Olaria Algarve (Tel. [phone]), better known as Porches Pottery, is the biggest and best of these, with highly original designs and unique colors. Inside you can usually see a trio of women painting pieces. There’s also an attractive little café-restaurant, itself decorated (of course) with wonderful ceramics. A little farther east is Casa Algarve, which sells pottery and handicrafts in an attractive old house. More than others, it specializes in large-scale azulejo panels.
The coastal development nearby along the cliff tops continues apace. However, the vast majority of apartments and villas here are low-rise, and perhaps because the road system is not fully developed here, this part of the coast has largely escaped the attentions of mass tourism.
One of the most photographed beaches along this stretch is Nossa Senhora da Rocha (Our Lady of the Rock). The rock in question is a promontory, boldly jutting out into the sea, surmounted by a little white fishermen’s church. On either side of the rock are two lovely half-moon coves, framed by cliffs.
The beach of Armação de Pêra is one of the longest in the Algarve — a flat, golden stretch to the east, picturesque rock stacks and small coves to the west. The massive development on the east end of town, though, has pretty much run roughshod over the natural beauty of the area, all but eclipsing the former fishing village. On the front, however, there is a pleasant esplanade and a small fortress, built in 1760, which contains a pretty chapel.
ALBUFEIRA
Albufeira, at one time a picturesque fishermen’s town, has grown wildly in recent years to become the leading resort in the Algarve. The area now generally referred to as Albufeira encompasses the coast from beyond Galé in the west all the way to Praia da Falésia, just before a marginally distinct resort area begins at Vilamoura. Parts of the commercial sprawl, while rarely grotesque, still overwhelm the little town at their center.
Once you’re off the traffic-squeezed main arteries, you’ll find that Albufeira’s old town preserves a surprising bit of traditional charm. The cluster of whitewashed buildings includes a number of Moorish arches and three small churches.
Its magnificent setting — enormous, pockmarked sandstone cliffs rise above a huge beach lined with colorful fishing boats and hundreds of sunbathers — has proved resistant to development ruin. The gently sloping sands are perfect for family holidays, and if you are looking for a little more privacy you can escape the crowds by heading farther east along the sandy coast. A tunnel links the center of the town with the main beach.
When tractors haul the fishing fleet ashore, sunbathers jump from their towels to gape at the catch — 1-meter (3-foot) eels, still flapping; foot-long, spiny lobsters still snapping; and bucketloads of flat and silver fish. The famous beachside fish market buckled under logistics problems years ago and moved just north of the center. It is still worth a visit, however, and you will also find fruit, vegetables, and flowers on sale.
Albufeira’s name evokes its Moorish roots. Indeed, the North African occupiers called it Al-Buhera (“castle on the sea”). Its cliff-top position and labyrinthine street plan provided an easily defensible spot for the Moors, and Albufeira proved one of the last towns to fall during the Reconquest. Its layout, however, did not save it from the 1755 earthquake, during which the town was almost completely destroyed.
Modern Albufeira has fallen prey to mass tourism — international bars, cafés, and nightspots pump out loud music day and night. There is little traditionally Portuguese about its raucous central square, but there are quiet spots to be found. And what brings all the tourists here, the Atlantic, is just a splash away. From almost any vantage point, the view of old Albufeira sloping up a gentle hill and its seascape is incredibly spectacular.
With so much activity to the east, the excellent beaches west of town are relatively uncrowded. The best are São Rafael, a beautiful, sandy strip with some splendidly shaped rocky outcrops, and Coelha, Castelo, and Galé, three small, beautiful coves.
One of the most picturesque towns in the province is the lovely village Alte, about 30 km (18 miles) north of Albufeira. It is entered in romantic fashion, across a small, white bridge over a babbling stream that runs through town and waters a rich valley thick with oranges, pomegranates, and figs.
The architectural highlight of the village is the beautiful 16th-century Igreja Matriz, entered through a classic Manueline portal. The church keeper will enthusiastically point out the many elaborate chapels and the rare 16th-century Sevillana azulejos. The rest of Alte is the Algarve of postcards — white-washed houses along narrow streets, colorful windows, filigreed chimney pots, and red-tiled roofs. And while their character may at first seem uniform, you won’t see two houses the same.
Follow the stream upriver and you come to the popular Pequena Fonte (Little Fountain) springs, where a restaurant and occasional folk dancing draw visitors. The setting is delightful and a perfect spot for a picnic.
If you continue east on N-124, you’ll pass rolling hills and come to the pretty village of Salir, which is built on the edge of a steeply rising ridge and has two fine lookout points. The first is in the village itself, alongside the 16th-century parish church and water tower (don’t miss the delightful gardens next door). The other, with the best views, is the adjacent peak, which once held a Moorish stronghold (follow signs to the Castelo). All that remains of the castle are the bases of four huge turrets (12th–13th century) and some excavations. The old castle grounds are home to a tiny hamlet, complete with its own church. The panoramic views across to the main part of Salir and the surrounding countryside are spectacular, and there is even a tiny miradouro (belvedere) café here.
EAST from albufeira
Loosely grouped with Albufeira are beaches to the east. Here, the coastline features the last of the dramatic rock formations that have made the Algarve so famous. At appealing Olhos d’Agua, a single road leads between pine-covered cliffs down to a soft, sandy beach shared by a gaily painted fishing fleet, eroded sandstone formations, and sunbathers. The resort derives its name from the “eyes of water” that flow from strangely formed rocks, visible only at low tide.
Falésia is a beautiful beach framed by high cliffs, but to get to it you need to negotiate the grounds of the Sheraton Algarve, whose elevator down to the beach is for guests only. There are other excellent beaches at Santa Eulalia (longer and more open than Olhos de Agua), Balaia, Praia da Oura, and São João. The latter two are regarded as satellites of Albufeira and may well be where you are staying on a package holiday to Albufeira. The center of activity along this beach hinterland is the infamous “strip” — a long street leading up to the hilltop area known as Montechoro. As the name indicates, it’s lined with a motley collection of bars, restaurants, and nightspots.
Nearby Vilamoura is a wholly planned and sanitized community — Europe’s largest “from-scratch” private tourist undertaking. From high-rise hotels and sprawling villas that line manicured golf courses to the 19th-hole club bar and the Algarve’s biggest marina, it is undeniably well done, but it could be anywhere. Still, it’s a major draw for those who have their clubs ready for a golfing vacation; several of the Algarve’s best courses have been sculpted out of the area.
As new as everything looks and feels, the marina designers were not the first to take advantage of Vilamoura’s harbor. The Romans built a dock in the same place and established an important fishing center here. The Roman remains of Cêrro da Villa were unearthed across the road from the marina. Aside from some low-level excavations showing the elaborate water-piping system and surviving mosaics and ceramics, there is also a small museum displaying everything from fishhooks to lamps, appealing to any student of archaeology.
A little farther west, Quarteira, once a quiet fishing village, is today virtually unrecognizable, subsumed under an onslaught of rows and rows of apartment buildings. The busy resort has a long, golden beach, and there are good, cheap restaurants in the old quarter where locals and adventurous visitors mingle. The municipal market still stands on the beach; every Wednesday one of the largest and busiest markets on the Algarve — offering fish and produce — is held next to it.
East of Vilamoura and Quarteira, the Algarvian terrain begins to change. The rugged, rocky lines of the Barlavento coast west of Faro give way to the long, flat beaches of the east.
The small crossroads town of Almancil has shops, cafés, and businesses, many of which are dedicated to serving English expatriates. But the town, of modest interest itself, is best known for what lies in its vicinity. Many of these ex-pats live just a few miles south on the coast, and it is here that two of the Algarve’s most luxurious and exclusive resorts are found. Surprisingly, given their status, neither Vale do Lobo nor Quinta do Lago are well sign-posted off the main road.
Each is reached down long roads that become progressively more private-looking as the beach nears. Vale do Lobo means “Valley of the Wolves,” but it could just as well mean “Valley of the Dolls”; it is a security-conscious, maze-like villa community concealed behind a giant, cheesy entrance gate. Guards do their best to keep the beach the domain of the expatriate and wealthy tourist classes. Quinta do Lago, a few miles down the coast, refers to the hotel of the same name, once owned by Prince Faisal of Saudi Arabia, and the luxury homes that have sprouted up around it. Quinta do Lago has one of the finest golf courses on the Algarve, which is designed delicately along the Ria Formosa Nature Preserve. The beach is reached across a long, nostalgic wooden bridge that crosses wetlands and bird sanctuaries. On the beach is a terrific, if expensive, restaurant for fresh-caught fish, which you pick out and have grilled.
Back toward Almancil is one of the Algarve’s top attractions, but if you’re not looking closely, it’s easy to miss. About 16 km (10 miles) west of Faro, a simple white church stands out on a small hill overlooking the thundering highway. A sign simply says “S. Lourenço” — indicating the turn-off to São Lourenço do Matto (Church of St. Lawrence of the Woods). Inside is one of the most extraordinary displays of azulejo design you’ll ever see. Every square inch of the Baroque, 15th-century church — its walls, vaulted ceiling, and cupola — is covered with hand-painted, blue-and-white ceramic tiles. Most date from the early 18th century and depict biblical scenes detailing the life of St. Lawrence, born across the border in Huesca, Spain. The only element of the church not blue-and-white is the carved, gilded altar. The ensemble is a stunning sight, not to be missed.
Loulé, north of Almancil, is a regional produce center with a large Saturday market, known for its leather, lace, and copper goods. Loulé is a prosperous town with an ambitious, modern boulevard complete with outdoor cafés that are jam-packed on market day. Coach parties come from far and wide to shop at the colorful, bustling market.
There are actually two markets. Fresh produce, including fish, is sold in a mock-Moorish hall, while a “gypsy market” is held towards the opposite end of the boulevard. Just below the permanent market halls, on the main Praça da República, you’ll find a well-preserved section of the medieval castle walls (which were much damaged by the 1755 earthquake). The ramparts afford excellent views from the town, and set into the castle remains is a modest local museum. Also worth visiting are the Igreja Matriz (São Clemente), a 13th-century Gothic church with 18th-century azulejo tiles; the Convento da Graça, with a terrific Manueline portal; and Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a small church prized for its Baroque altar and ceramic tiles.
In the streets directly below the castle walls, you may well hear the sounds of craftsmen beating copper — from whom you can buy direct. You can also see artisans at work on the pottery wheel, producing leather goods (such as decorated saddles and bridles) and furniture. The craftsmen of Loulé are said to be the descendants of a community of Muslims who found refuge in the district at the end of the Reconquest. If you are in the Algarve in springtime, don’t miss the Loulé Carnival. The parades, “Battle of Flowers,” and musical celebrations are the best of their kind in the region.
The flower-lined road from Loulé to São Brás de Alportel, another market town and site of one of only two government pousadas (inns) along the Algarve, passes through rolling orchards of fig, olive, and orange trees. It’s best to visit the town on Saturday, when the lively market transforms its otherwise sleepy character. You may wish to pay a visit to the charming Museu Etnográfico do Trajo Algárvio (Museum of Algarvian Costumes), where exhibits of local dress are well staged in a large, old house 90 m (100 yards) or so off the main square.
In this northern part of the southern province, life is visibly slower and more rustic; bonneted ladies in black walk along the roadside, old men bounce up and down on donkeys, and families pluck almonds from the trees with long sticks.
On the road toward Faro is a pair of historical sights. The Palácio de Estói is a most curious find. The charming Rococo palace, found through a small side gate just to the left of the church steps in the town center, once belonged to the Dukes of Estói. Begun in the mid-18th century, in palatial terms, it’s rather small, abandoned and visibly dilapidated, and only the gardens are open to the public. Yet it is a spectacular sight. Its faded glory includes balustrade terraces and staircases with splendid bursts of bougainvillea, busts of historic characters impaled on the parapets, brightly colored wall tiles, and formal gardens. The palace and gardens have been acquired by the Portuguese government, which aims to construct a pousada (inn) here. If and when that project is completed, it should become one of the most interesting of the entire chain.
The dusty Villa Romana de Milreu (Roman ruins of Milreu) is 1.5km (1 mile) down the road from the village toward Faro (a small sign on the side of the road reads “Ruinas de Milreu”). Some 1,400 years before the Palace of Estói was erected, Milreu was also the large country house of an eminent person. The knee-high walls that trace the outline of this once luxury establishment are still clearly visible. The tall, semi-circular tower ruin is thought to have been a temple to pagan water gods at one time; however, by the fifth century it had clearly been converted to a church.
FARO
Faro, the provincial capital of the Algarve, is also the one that seems to get the least respect from tourists. Many fly into Faro, beeline directly to their resorts, and return two weeks later, bypassing the city for the airport. Those who take the time — a day is sufficient — to explore Faro find an atmosphere quite distinct from the resort-heavy coast. Faro has a greater wealth of cultural and historic monuments than any other Algarvian town, a picturesque old quarter, and best of all, tourists never overrun authentic Portuguese restaurants, cafés, and bars.
Faro was always an important town, even during Roman times, when it was allowed to coin its own money. It continued to thrive under the Arabs; its name may be derived from the name Harune, one of the old city’s ruling families. The Christians recaptured Faro in 1249, completing the Reconquest, and the city prospered, becoming the Episcopal see of the Bishop of the Algarve in 1577. But in 1596, when it was Spanish territory, an English fleet commanded by Queen Elizabeth I’s favorite, the Earl of Essex, sacked and burned the capital.
Until comparatively recently, when the area silted into a tidal flat, Faro was a commercial and fishing port open to the Atlantic. Indeed, the Earl of Essex’s fleet had sailed right up to the city’s Arab fortifications. Today small fishing boats and pleasure craft must zigzag carefully amid the dunes and then creep beneath the railway bridge to enter the sleepy harbor.
The main entrance to the circular old town, near the harbor, is the 19th-century Arco da Vila, a charming arch and bell tower habitually crowned by a venerable family of nesting storks. Beyond the arch, a cobbled street, worn slick by centuries of tramping feet, leads up to the splendid expanse of the Largo da Sé (Cathedral Square), best seen in the evening when floodlit and free of cars.
The Sé’s unusual cathedral tower, main portico, and two interior chapels are all that remain of the original 13th-century Gothic building. Inside are some fine examples of azulejos and superb statues and carvings, one of the Algarve’s top collections of 17th- and 18th-century sacred art. Climb the tower for fine views over the whole of Faro. At last visit, the cathedral was undergoing a massive restoration project, both inside and out, as it has since it was attacked by the English and later damaged by the great earthquake. Until that project is finished, entrance is through a side door.
Across the square is the Sede Episcopal (Episcopal Palace), an excellent example of the plain chã style prevalent during the 17th century. To its right is the Câmara Municipal (Town Hall).
The Convento de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Convent of Our Lady of the Assumption), which contains the most beautiful cloister in southern Portugal. The first Renaissance building in the Algarve, it was constructed in the 16th century on the site of the old Jewish quarter (Faro had a sizeable Jewish population in the Middle Ages). Abandoned as a convent in the 19th century and then put to improbable use as a cork factory, it has now been beautifully restored as a museum devoted to archaeology, the Museu Arqueológico Infante Dom Henrique. The principal exhibit is a 2,000-year-old Roman floor mosaic measuring 9 m (30 ft) long and 3 m (10 ft) wide. Unearthed in Faro, it is nicknamed the “Ocean Mosaic,” for it depicts a bearded sea-god (though the bulldozer that discovered it in 1976 shaved off the lower half of his face). There are also busts taken from the Roman ruins at Milreu. Displays of Portuguese art are housed in the many rooms off the cloister.
Nearby is the Ermida de Nossa Senhora do Repouso (Hermitage of Our Lady of Rest), a tiny 18th-century chapel carved out of the ancient Moorish arches.
The real attraction of Faro’s old town, however, is not its set-piece buildings, but the quiet, hidden, timeless flavor of its tiny houses, and narrow, cobbled alleyways. A good place to sit and absorb some of it is the friendly Café do Largo, where classical music accompanies your coffee.
Just outside the old quarter is the Igreja de São Francisco (Church of the Third Order of St. Francis), begun in the late 17th century. Narrative tiles adorn the main chapel and vaulted ceiling, which displays a terrific panel of the Coronation of the Virgin Mary.
In the center of town, across from the harbor, the cobbled and shaded municipal Jardim Manuel Bívar, created in the 15th century as the Queen’s Square, is a popular meeting place for young and old alike. In its center are an open-air café and an old-fashioned bandstand. Several handsome 16th–18th-century mansions surround the square, including the Banco de Portugal building and the Palácio Belmarço.
As in several other Algarve towns, the main shopping area of central Faro is pedestrian-only, and cafés and restaurants spill out onto the street, fish displays and all. Rua de Santo António is the main thoroughfare. At its far end is the Museu Etnográfico (Ethnographic Museum), with displays of local handicrafts, reconstructions of rooms in a typical Algarvian house, and a colorful water-cart that Manuel Ignacio Miguel of Olhão operated for 60 years, almost up to his death in 1974. The museum sits on the edge of Faro’s Mouraria, or old Moorish quarter. It’s worth wandering the streets that lead to Largo do Pé da Cruz and the attractive little 17th-century chapel of the same name (Our Lady of the Foot of the Cross).
The new town, an expansion dating from the 19th century, is west of here. Two churches, which face each other across a large and congested plaza, are worth seeing. The Igreja de São Pedro (Church of St. Peter) is the smaller of the two, built in the 16th century. It has a carved Baroque retable and a couple of Rococo chapels.
But Faro’s finest church is Igreja do Carmo (Carmelite Church), which took most of the 18th century to build. The promise of its twin belltowers and stately façade is matched by a beautiful gilded interior, but the greatest attraction is the macabre Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). This 19th-century curiosity, like a similar chapel in the town of Évora farther north, is constructed of the skulls and bones of monks, unearthed from the friars’ cemetery. Depending on your tolerance for such things, it is either fascinating or sick beyond belief.
Less ghastly is the Jewish Cemetery, on the outskirts of town (off Rua Leão Penedo, near Praça dos Bomberos de Faro). Dating to the early 19th century, it has more than one hundred tombstones in Hebrew, testimony to the once-important Jewish community in Faro.
Few people seem to do it, but it is well worth spending a night or two in Faro, especially if you’ve already spent some time in a traditional Algarvian beach resort. Watch the sun setting over the fishing boats in the lagoon while you have a drink in the splendidly old-fashioned, cavernous Café Aliança, the city’s oldest café. Faro also has some lively music bars.
Faro’s beach, the Praia de Faro, is noted for its watersports. You can drive there across the single-lane causeway linking the long, strip of dunes with the mainland (no buses or motor homes allowed), or in the summer catch a ferry from the pier by the old town. If the ocean is rough, simply cross to the opposite side of the sand spit and swim in the calm, warmer waters of the lagoon (though be aware, it can sometimes be muddy and a little unpleasant).
The Sotavento Coast
Heading east from the provincial capital of Faro, the first settlement of any size you will come to is the colorful fishing town of Olhão. A working port, it has made few concessions to tourism and is full of character.
Olhão has often been described as the “little white Cubist town of the Algarve,” its architecture likened to that of North African towns. That may have been the case some years ago, but modern development has strongly interfered with its once distinctive appearance. You can judge for yourself by ascending the bell tower of the parish church (which also goes by the name of Nossa Senhora do Rosário), which you will find by winding your way through the narrow streets back to the Praça da Restauração (you may have to ask for access to the tower in the sacristy). Founded by King Dom Pedro II in 1698, the church has an impressive, scroll-decorated Baroque façade, brilliant white dome, stone belltower, and a chapel at the rear, Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos (Our Lady of the Afflicted), where women often pray when their fishermen husbands are away at sea.
Instead of the red-tiled roofs and filigreed chimneys seen elsewhere in the Algarve, the Olhão skyline comprises flat-topped roofs of terraces called açoeitas. Look hard and you can still see the narrow, outside staircases leading to white-washed towers, where fishermen’s wives, or perhaps smugglers, would look out for the incoming fleet.
The name of the square, Praça da Restauração (“Restoration Square”), recalls Olhão’s most glorious moment, when an improvised local army rebelled against Napoleon’s occupying forces in 1808. This insurrectionary zeal subsequently spread throughout the rest of Portugal and resulted in Olhão being awarded the title “Noble Town of the Restoration.”
Olhão’s fishing port is worth a look. The fishermen of the town have a reputation for hardiness — some used to earn a living in cod waters as far off as Newfoundland. During the past two centuries, however, some of the sailors have turned away from fishing and instead, taken to the cargo trade between Portugal and North Africa. This relatively recent link with the neighboring continent may have been the inspiration for the local North African style of architecture. In any case, it developed long after the Moors had left the Algarve.
You’re unlikely to see a boat coming in from another continent, but you are guaranteed the hustle, bustle, sights, smells, and sounds of one of the Olhão fish market, one of the Algarve’s best (the town is especially famous for its mussels and other shellfish). Adjacent to the voluminous market buildings are small, well-tended parks, one of which boasts several splendid benches decorated with blue-and-white azulejos. Just beyond the park on the other side, ferryboats depart regularly in summer for the barrier-island beaches of Armona and Culatra just offshore. These lovely, undeveloped beaches are the jewels of the coastline between Faro and Tavira.
A little farther along the coast, at Fuzeta, is another popular beach. There is some holiday development here, but as yet only on a small scale. Fuseta itself is little more than a creek of gaily-painted boats bobbing at anchor, while in the background local workers rake salt crystals into small white mountains punctuating the saline delta.
Turn inland, because the small village of Moncarapacho, with a fine old church, a sleepy village square, and a local museum, is well worth the 8-km (5-mile) detour. The countryside around here is full of orange and almond groves and, as you head east (back on the main road) towards Tavira, olive groves and vineyards also start to appear. Tavira’s grapes produce a good, rustic wine consumed all over the Algarve.
East Toward Spain
After the salty flavor of Olhão and the rural serenity of Moncarapacho, the aristocratic bearings of Tavira, one of the true gems of the Algarve, may come as something of a surprise. One of the region’s most historic cities, its Moorish, Reconquista, and Renaissance roots are clearly visible.
In the 1500s, Tavira had the largest population on the Algarve. This tuna-fishing port and self-assured town of historic churches, imposing classical-style mansions, and riverfront gardens probably dates back as far as the Phoenicians or the Carthaginians. In fact, its seven-arched stone bridge of Roman origin is still in use.
Tavira’s castle, in the center of the casco histórico (old quarter), was a defensive structure built by the Moors. Climb the walls for a superb panoramic view of the city, but be careful, as the ramparts have no guardrails. Within the walls is an attractive, fragrant garden.
The walls look directly onto the Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo (Church of St. Mary of the Castle), most likely built on the site of the old mosque. The Gothic portal is the only original 13th-century part of the building to have survived the devastating 1755 earthquake. In the chancel is the large tomb of Dom Paio Peres Correia, who drove the Moors out of Tavira in 1242.
Across the square, the ochre-colored former convent, Convento da Graça, is being converted into a pousada (inn) by the Portuguese government.
Just down the hill, off Rua Galeria near the river, is the beautiful 16th-century Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy), a spectacular Renaissance edifice. The carved portico is especially fine, with a statue of Our Lady of Mercy under a canopy. The 18th-century interior contains excellent specimens of carved retables and tiles. There are at least two dozen other churches in Tavira; also worth a visit — though you may find them closed‚ — are the 13th-century Igreja de Santiago (St. James Church), near the castle walls, and the 17th-century Igreja de Sao Paulo (Church of St. Paul), across the river on Praça Dr. Padinha. The church, part of a former monastery, has a unique feature: the floor of the transept is paved with bricks and stones painted with Spanish figures.
Rua da Liberdade, Tavira’s main street, is lined with stately 16th-century mansions. A walk down any of the city’s old streets will reveal handsome details of noble houses, such as double windows and latticed doors. A lively fruit and vegetable market is held by the banks of the River Gilão, and it is well worth crossing the Roman bridge to view more of the town’s elegant houses and pretty flower-filled squares. Many of those houses have sloping triangular roofs, called tesouros (treasures).
A nice excursion from Tavira is to the nearby island Ilha de Tavira, where there is a huge and thoroughly appealing beach backed by sand dunes. Jetties leave from a point, Quatro Águas, a couple of km (one mile) east of town.
Back on the mainland, a turn-off of the main road east (EN-125, still!) of Tavira leads a small number of visitors to a perfectly enchanting little whitewashed village overlooking the sea. Pretty Cacela Velha can’t have more than 100 inhabitants. It has an 18th-century church, a telephone booth, a cemetery, an old well, and a handful of well-tended, blue-and-white houses festooned with flowers. Below the town, along a spit of sand that’s part of the Ria (estuary), are a few moored fishing boats.
East of here lies the fledgling resort of Manta Rota, a former fishing village, and the high-rise canyons of Monte Gordo. The reason behind all this development is a long sandy beach, which stretches undisturbed for some 10 km (6 miles) between the two resorts and is backed by pine trees and dunes. Although the last in a long line of Algarve beach resorts (or the first, if you’re coming from Spain) is not, by a long shot, the coast’s most attractive, the beach and watersports facilities at Monte Gordo are enough to attract and entertain many serious sun-seekers. By night the casino is the focus of attention.
The Guadiana River, which runs into the Atlantic 3 km (2 miles) east of Monte Gordo, served as a natural frontier for 2,000 years, forming the boundary between the Roman provinces of Lusitania (Portugal) and Baetica (southern Spain). This explains the strategic importance of Castro Marim, a former fortress town rising from the flatlands to command the broad river. For five centuries its primitive castle-fortress was occupied by the Moors. After the Reconquest it became the home of the new Military Order of Christ (succeeding the disbanded Knights Templars). Look for the inscription inside the main entrance proclaiming that Prince Henry the Navigator, who was a governor of the order, once lived here. These days the castle itself is in need of defense and restoration, and although it may no longer be of any military value, its broad, unpolluted marshlands do attract large numbers of wading birds. The area is protected by the National Parks service and is very popular with birdwatchers.
A little to the south, the town of Vila Real de Santo António (the Royal Town of St. Anthony) is the last of the Algarve’s beach towns before Spain. The city was designed to be as grand as its name suggests, in order to impress the Spanish on the other side of the river. The town plan was the inspiration of the Marquês of Pombal, the dynamic hatchet man of King José I, and the town was built from scratch in just five months in 1774, aping the grid layout of Lisbon’s Baixa (lower city).
The town square, Praça do Marquês do Pombal, is the work of the royal architect, and the tour de force of Vila Real. The pavement’s black and white wedges of stone radiate from an obelisk in the center of the square like rays from the sun. Distinguished three-story, late 18th-century houses line the square, and orange trees soften the edges, adding color and scent. Visit the small Manuel Cabanas Museum, just off the square, to see a nice collection of woodcuts that ranges from rustic scenes to famous statesmen and composers.
Today Vila Real is sleepy but quietly dignified. A walk around the old quarter reveals a number of fine, brightly painted houses along pedestrian-only streets. Vila Real de Santo António’s main appeal is as the ferry port to Ayamonte across the water in Spain. The trip takes just 20 minutes — less time than it would take to drive to and over the new bridge — and the white town of Ayamonte is a fine sight as you approach it from the river. Crossing into Spain, you will need to take your passport.
Excursion to Lisbon
Until the 19th century, the overland journey from the Algarve to Lisbon, Portugal’s capital city, took a week or more. Now it’s only half a day (or even less) by road or rail, and you can fly from Faro in just 40 minutes. If you only have a couple of days to spend in Lisbon, however, you might want to consider an all-inclusive coach excursion from the coast, which takes care of accommodation and sightseeing.
For many years Lisbon has enjoyed a reputation as a relatively quiet, easy-going sort of town, lacking the hustle, bustle, and general hassle of other major European cities. But while this is still true to a degree, the gap is now closing and Lisbon is becoming altogether more European.
The center of Lisbon is small, compact, and easy to get around in just a couple of days. Moreover, it boasts two charming old quarters as full of character as any place in Europe. If, you have more than two days, it is well worth visiting the surrounding region. The popular Estoril coast, including Cascais, and the beautiful hilltop town of Sintra are two of the most popular excursions.
Exploring Lisbon
The city is built on hills — by legend seven, in fact many more — but the great thing for the visitor is the splendid vantage points and lookouts that these provide. The best place to start your tour of Lisbon is from the Moors’ old castle, the Castelo de São Jorge, the king of all vantage points. From here you can look out over the whole of the city and along the broad Rio Tejo (River Tagus), spanned by the longest suspension bridge in Europe.
The castle is set just above Lisbon’s most famous bairro (district), the Alfama. Here you will discover a labyrinth of narrow, crooked streets, cobbled alleyways, decaying old houses, former palaces, fish stalls, and bars totally unknown to tourists. Little has changed here in decades, if not centuries.
Another majestic view of the city is from the charming park, Miradouro de Santa Luzia, just down the hill from the castle. Close by is the Sé (Cathedral), which has an ancient, cavernous interior — one of perhaps a dozen first-class churches in the city. Adjacent to the cathedral is the lovely Igreja de Santo António da Sé, named for Lisbon’s patron saint, St. Anthony of Padua.
Just beyond the dense quarters of the Alfama, is São Vicente de Fora (St. Vincent Beyond the Walls), an Italianate church and monastic cloister. The latter is the true highlight: its courtyards are lined with blue-and-white azulejos, and the views from the roof are among the best in the city.
Down toward the river is the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Azulejo Museum), devoted entirely to the art of painted and glazed ceramic tiles, a national art form. About 12,000 azulejos are on show here, from 15th-century polychrome designs to 20th-century art deco. A prized possession is the Lisbon Panorama, a 36m- (118ft-) long tile composition of Lisbon’s riverside as it looked before the 1755 earthquake. 
Like Alfama, the Bairro Alto (upper city) is a hilly area full of evocative houses decorated with wrought-iron balconies usually occupied by birdcages and flowerpots. At night the district is loaded with exciting atmosphere and is famous for its fado clubs. It’s a relatively harmless place by day, but you should be on your guard if visiting after dark.
Perched on the edge of the Bairro Alto is the Igreja do Carmo, devastated in the earthquake of 1755 but deliberately preserved as an atmospheric ruin and potent reminder of its impact. Nearby, the sumptuous, 16th-century Igreja de São Roque, features a small museum of sacred art.
You can walk to this area easily from the central squares, but it’s also fun to go by tram or instead to board the landmark 30-meter (98-foot) Elevador de Santa Justa, which you’ll find just off the Rossio square in the Baixa, the lower city. This 1902 Victorian marvel of iron and glass was built by Raul Mesnier. The longer, slower way back downhill meanders through the upmarket shopping area of Chiado, now totally rebuilt after a 1988 fire that swept through the district.
The Baixa is Lisbon’s principal business district. The main square is the Praça Dom Pedro IV, better known as the Rossio. Look out for the railway station, Estação do Rossio, which looks like a Moorish palace with horseshoe arches, just west of the square. Two blocks north is another lively square, Praça dos Restauradores, which leads to the leafy main thoroughfare, Avenida da Liberdade. The city plunges steeply downhill to the River Tagus and its most imposing square, Praça do Comércio, lined on three sides by gracious arcaded buildings and a vast triumphal arch. The grand square, wholly wiped out by the great earthquake of 1755, has seen its share of watershed political events: King Carlos and his son were felled by assassin’s bullets in the praça in 1908, and one of the first uprisings of the Carnation Revolution of 1974 was staged in this place.
Moving west and down toward the river from Praça do Comércio is the elegant residential neighborhood called Lapa. Its standout sight is the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (National Museum of Ancient Art), Portugal’s largest museum. Among its pieces of international renown are The Adoration of St Vincent, a multi-panel work attributed to the 15th-century Portuguese master, Nuno Gonçalves; and The Temptation of St. Anthony, a fantastic hallucination by Hieronymus Bosch, tempered with humor and executed with mad genius.
Some 6 km (4 miles) west of Praça do Comércio lies the riverside district of Belém. It was from here that the age of exploration (begun on the Algarve) reached its zenith between 1497 and 1499, when Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India opened up a major new sea route. During the following century, Portugal enjoyed a golden age of trade, and King Manuel celebrated the discoverers with two magnificent monuments.
The most famous is the small but exquisitely formed Torre de Belém, as romantic a medieval fortress as you will ever see (particularly by night, when it is magically floodlit). By contrast the majestic Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is Lisbon’s largest religious monument and a truly formidable example of Manueline architecture. The church and its double-decker cloister survived the 1755 earthquake, and in addition to royal tombs holds the relics of national heroes Vasco da Gama and the poet Luis de Camões. The monastery houses an archaeology museum, and next door is the Museu da Marinha (Naval Museum). Back down the street toward Lisbon is the highly popular Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum), which is located in the former riding school of the Belém Royal Palace.
One final sight in Belém is the modern Monument to the Discoverers. This huge, splendid waterfront sculpture depicts Prince Henry the Navigator at the prow of a stylized caravel that juts into the Tagus River. The figures behind represent noted explorers, map-makers, and astronomers whom Prince Henry mobilized in order to launch Portuguese ships into the history books.
Lisbon’s newest attraction is the park designed for the World Expo ’98, which did much to reinvigorate the industrial eastern section of the city. Continuing to draw visitors to the riverfront Parque das Nações (Nations Park) is its world-class aquarium, the Oceanário de Lisboa, perhaps the world’s top aquarium. The park is easily accessible by Metro (subway).
Estoril Coast
Excursions follow the coast west from Lisbon, as the riverfront evolves into a series of Atlantic Ocean beaches. The most famous is Estoril, a resort about 24 km (15 miles) from Lisbon. A haven for deposed European royalty in the first half of this century, it retains a jet-set image, with Victorian villas and modern mansions. The famous casino, located at the top of the gardens of the Parque do Estoril, combines a night-club, restaurants, bars, exhibition hall, and cinema.
In contrast to Estoril’s pretentions, Cascais is an agreeable combination of fishing port, residence for aristocrats, and tourist resort. Overlooking the main swimming/fishing beach, the 13th-century citadel is one of the few buildings to have survived the earthquake and tidal wave of 1755.
Queluz
An easy half-day outing is to Queluz, 14 km (8 miles) west of Lisbon on the way to Sintra (see below), home to the pretty pink palace commissioned by Pedro III. The sumptuous summer home was built in the second half of the 18th century and thrived during the reign of Maria I (1777–1799). The interior is a model of only slightly tattered splendor, but the exquisite Palace Gardens are the pride of Queluz, with imaginative fountains, and armies of statues.
Sintra
Finally, excursions turn inland to the fetching hill town of Sintra. Since the 14th century, Portuguese kings have made the Paço da Vila, the royal palace in the center of town, their summer home. 
The Palácio da Pena, crowning a verdant hill overlooking the mountains and coast, is an even more extraordinary dwelling. Built by a German Baron for his Portuguese queen in 1840, up close it turns out to be an eclectic, whimsical mix of architectural styles (Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, and Moorish).
On a nearby hilltop, the atmospheric ruins Castelo dos Mouros (Moors’ Castle) date from the eighth and ninth centuries. Its conquest by the forces of Count Afonso Henriques in 1147 was considered a pivotal triumph in the Reconquest of Portugal.