Where to Go
New Providence
It’s not the largest of the Bahamas islands and not the most stunningly beautiful, yet when most people think of the Bahamas they first think of New Providence or its major town, Nassau. The island is only 80 square miles in size yet 180,000 of the 280,000 Bahamians lives here. The town and its port and international airport are the hub for every activity in the Bahamas. Government, administration, taxes, and furniture shipments for new homes all start from here and radiate out to the other islands. New Providence also attracts over 3 million visitors every year, and Nassau is one of the main cruise ports of the Caribbean. The island is a magnet for fun seekers and serious shoppers, and it serves both very well.
Nassau
Nassau town has a fine pedigree dating back through colonial times, and the compact town center still has the feel of life under the English. Out in the natural harbor, which offered shelter to many a pirate ship, is a major port that can accommodate 15 large cruise ships at one time. This capacity was created in 1965 when public money was invested to dredge the port, specifically to allow bigger ships to enter. The huge vessels, hundreds of feet high, dwarf the towns buildings, which regulations set at a maximum of three stories, and create one of the most effective juxtapositions of modernity and history found anywhere in the world. The cruise port at Prince George Wharf brings in by far the majority of visitors to the Bahamas.
Immediately in front of the cruise port you’ll find a line of horse-drawn surreys waiting to offer you a genteel tour along the historic streets. The horses wait under the cooling shade for their next customers. (In the hot summer months the horses are not allowed to work from 2–4pm.) The horses trot slowly past all the sights in town, but you can also easily stroll around yourself and see everything in a couple of hours — if you’re not seduced by the many shopping opportunities between the docks and the historic old town.
The first sight that will attract your attention is the Straw Market on Market Plaza, which backs onto Woodes Rodgers Walk. For many years this has been the showcase for Bahamian handicrafts. Straw goods, including baskets and mats, are favorite souvenirs; each island produces straw goods in its own style and patterns. Bestsellers are hats, dolls, bags, and baskets. There is some exquisite work to be found, but be aware that with a decline in basket-making throughout the Bahamas, an increasing number of articles are imported from the Far East; most of these are at the cheaper end of the scale. The ubiquitous modern souvenir, the T-shirt, is also available, with an almost limitless number of pictures, patterns, and slogans. The ladies who run the stalls are easy-going and seem to have limitless enthusiasm for the next sale. You’ll hear numerous calls of “Hey, honey, come look for something nice here.”
The straw market fronts onto Bay Street, one of the leading duty-free shopping capitals of the world. Only a few years ago this street was the domain of the Bay Street Boys, a small group of men who controlled all economic activity in the Bahamas; now Bay Street seduces visitors with huge sparkling gems, hundreds of ounces of gold, and the smell of a thousand designer fragrances. The façades of the pretty 18th-century shops hide modern air-conditioned shopping palaces piled high with luxury goods.
Many visitors, especially those with only a few hours to spare, go no farther than the shops of Nassau — shopping for a bargain can be exhausting. It would be a shame, however, not to explore what the rest of Nassau has to offer, as there are a number of historic gems to be discovered in and around the town. The Bahamian people appreciate and enjoy the many touches of colonial history retained from its days as part of the British Empire. Rawson Square, just in front of the entrance to Prince George Wharf, is a good place to start your tour. The tourist information office here can arm you with leaflets and maps that will help you make the most of your day. Directly opposite Rawson Square, across Bay Street, are the Public Buildings of Parliament Square, which have been in continuous use since 1812. They were modeled on the governmental complex in New Bern, capital of the North Carolina colony two centuries ago. A marble statue of a young, seated Queen Victoria in front recalls the era of British rule. The two chambers of the modern House of Assembly meet in the so-called western building (on the right side if you’re facing from the square); the public-records office and government publications department are housed in the other historic buildings. Behind them in modern edifices are the Law Courts. Here you may find yourself in the middle of a parade to open parliament or convene the courts. The smart uniforms and pomp are taken directly from British ceremonial activities, but the ambiance is truly Bahamian. Check with the Tourist Board for dates of ceremonial occasions, all of which happen frequently.
Behind the modern law court complex is the Nassau Public Library, interesting because it used to be the island’s jail. The octagonal structure on Shirley Street dates from 1797 and has a pretty exterior, but the interior is more fascinating. The old cells were retained when the structure became the library in 1873 and books line every wall, replacing prisoners and creating private reading areas. The library museum also has a collection of old maps and charts used to navigate the waters around the Bahamas.
If you’re walking, continue east along Shirley Street until you reach Elizabeth Avenue, and turn right. The land rises suddenly here. This area, behind the downtown area, had been used to great strategic effect by the British. Fort Fincastle was built atop the rise in 1793 to watch the shipping lanes and protect Nassau harbor. The tiny fort is shaped like the prow of a ship, though there is hardly enough room to fit a football team, never mind a unit of the queen’s soldiery. To reach the fort you must climb the Queen’s Staircase, an artificial narrow gorge leading to 65 steps that climb a hillside. Both the gorge and the staircase, created to allow soldiers to reach or leave the fort quickly, were hewn from the solid limestone by a contingent of slave workers. At the top of the staircase and next to the fort, the Water Tower offers a bird’s-eye view over Nassau, Paradise Island, and most of the rest of New Providence. A small elevator in the concrete structure will carry you 125 ft (38 m) to the top. Don’t forget your camera.
After a visit to the tower, return to the compact town center. Stroll along any street and you’ll bump into fine historic buildings; several date from the late 1700s and most are painted in pretty pastels that cheerfully reflect the bright Bahamian sunlight. Pink-and-white Balcony House on Market Street is a particularly fine example. The oldest wooden house on the island — it was built by shipwrights around 1790 of American soft cedar — it has been restored and is now a museum that offers a delightful view of life in well-to-do Nassau in the 18th century. Once a private home visited by the likes of the Duke of Windsor and Winston Churchill, Graycliff Mansion on West Hill Street is now a fine hotel with a well regarded menu and wine list. Many of the original Georgian Colonial features have been retained, and a collection of photographs provide guests and visitors with a glimpse into the building’s genteel past.
Vendue House, at the western end of Bay Street, at the corner of George Street, was once the site of the Nassau slave auction. It now houses the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation. The pale pink stone house is unassuming, but the interior tells of the plight of slaves on the islands and of the positive work that was undertaken in the years following emancipation.
The Pirates of Nassau attraction at the corner of George and Marlborough Streets brings to life the dramatic and exciting world of the pirates. The building itself dates from the 18th century; the attraction inside recreates the Nassau quayside of the 17th century. A three-quarter-size French corvette ship and quayside buildings have been stunningly brought to life. As you walk along the “dock,” costumed staff act out the roles of shipmate and pirate and regale you with tales of their everyday lives and deeds. Visitors then step inside the 75-ft- (23-m-) long vessel to examine the paraphernalia of the pirate’s trade that line the corridors and decks. Treasure chests mix with rum casks, and pirates tell of their lives at sea in the lonely and dangerous times. Listen to the groaning of injured pirates and witness the rudimentary and unsanitary surgical techniques that led to so many deaths — the ship’s carpenter doubled as surgeon. Read about the crew’s diet of “salmagundi,” a stew of pickled herrings, meat, and eggs mixed with wine and vinegar, which served to both preserve the protein and disguise the taste. Battle scenes are vividly recreated, and visitors find out the truth about what finally became of some of the most famous pirates.
The next street to the west is Blue Hill Road. About 1,640 ft (500 m) south of Shirley Street, opposite Graycliff Mansion, stands Government House, the official residence of the Governor-General, painted in the same shade of pink as the buildings of Parliament Square. At the north gate is a statue of Christopher Columbus in a rather dashing pose reminiscent of Errol Flynn in one of his swashbuckling films. Once every two weeks there is a solemn Changing of the Guard parade, similar to the one at Buckingham Palace in London, performed to the accompaniment of the Police Band. On the last Friday of the month from January to June all visitors to the island are invited to attend a huge tea party on the grounds.
Paradise Island
Across Nassau Harbour north of the town is Paradise Island, known until the 1940s as Hog Island. For many centuries the island simply acted as a protective barrier against bad weather and attack from invaders. Its recent history is fascinating: In the 1930s it was owned by Swedish millionaire Axel Wenner-Gren, an arms manufacturer who was found to be a Nazi sympathizer. He sold the island to Huntingdon Hartford, who changed the name from Hog to Paradise and created a beautiful private retreat, now the Ocean Club Hotel. Later gangster Per Lansky began the process that transformed the island from a private sanctuary with magnificent homes into a playground for tourists. The wonderful beaches, such as Cabbage Beach on the northern coast, were the focus of the development. The first hotels began to appear in the 1960s when gambling was a lure to the rich and famous. As Paradise Island saw owners Donald Trump and Merv Griffin come and go, it went through a continuing series of developments and re-developments.
Today Paradise Island may be close to fulfilling the dream of the perfect vacation playground. It has many of the essential ingredients needed: fine white-sand beaches, a protected marina, a golf course, a group of fine hotels, and perhaps the biggest adult playground this side of Las Vegas. The brainchild of the Sol Group, Atlantis Paradise Island is a new concept in resorts — it’s a huge hotel with an amazing theme park and entertainment village all on one site. The resort takes its name, and inspiration, from the lost city of Atlantis, said by some to lie off the coast of Bimini. This theme runs throughout the whole resort. The vast open foyers and public areas of the hotel have high columns of cathedral-like dimensions; the walkways and outside terraces recall Mayan temples, with large stones covering the façade. Waterfalls literally or figuratively cascade to give a feeling of a city just having risen from the ocean. Man-made sheltered lagoons provide for safe swimming, snorkeling, and sunbathing.
The masterpiece of the whole Atlantis complex is the enormous Aquarium, which can be viewed from almost any point in the resort — from the rooms above in the towers, from ground level, and from below ground. Within the Aquarium is an area called the Dig, a spectacular underwater environment complete with sunken “treasures,” vast stone columns, fallen temples, and godlike figures, all intended to show what Atlantis might look like while being excavated. The entire attraction has then been filled with sea water and a complete ecosystem of fish and crustaceans, 100,000 in all. Sharks and rays patrol the waterways, eels and lobsters lurk in the crevices and fissures. A truly awe-inspiring sight.
The resort boasts 20 restaurants, three shopping malls, and a vast casino area. Outside, water slides, nature trails, and swimming pools indicate that no expense has been spared to create the ultimate playground for all age groups. Many visitors to the Bahamas drop in just to marvel at the artistry and technical skill that was employed to create this complex. Non-guests must pay a fee to enjoy the resort facilities and an extra fee for a visit to the Dig.
At the eastern end of Paradise Island stands a much older structure that offers the opportunity for restful contemplation. The Cloisters are the remains of a 14th-century monastery that was bought in France by Huntingdon Hartford, taken apart, and rebuilt in the grounds of his home, now the Ocean Club hotel. Hartford set the small courtyard on a rise several hundred yards away from the house and created an elaborate garden to lead to the edifice. The Versailles Gardens, based on Louis XIV’s formal palace gardens outside Paris, have terraces, fountains, and statues that provide a soothing vista, leading the eye from the house to the cloisters. It is possible to visit the Cloisters during daylight hours — they stand next to the only road that traverses the island — but they are used regularly for wedding ceremonies, so you might find them closed.
Paradise Island is connected to New Providence by two bridges that rise high into the air to allow boat traffic to pass beneath. One bridge carries traffic on to the island, the other takes traffic back to Nassau (there is a small toll for vehicles). At the foot of the bridges is a small quay where you can catch a ferry to Woodes Rogers Walk in Nassau port. This is also the docking point for boats to Blue Lagoon and the Dolphin Experience. A small cay just a 20-minute boat ride from Paradise Island, Blue Lagoon is the site of a facility where you can swim with the dolphins or help the staff look after the animals for a day. Boats leave several times a day.
No public buses — jitneys — are allowed over the toll bridge to Paradise Island. You’ll need to take a taxi to and from Nassau if you don’t use the ferry. Once on the island, however, you can use the public bus service, which runs the length of the island, linking the hotels with the quayside and the small shopping center.
Underneath the bridges in the harbor is a small island called Potter’s Cay. This is where fishing boats and mail boats dock and where real Bahamian life happens. Stalls sell fresh conch salad and people sit and wait for the night’s sailing. The harbor master’s office here can help you with mail-boat schedules and prices.
Beyond Nassau
There are a number of interesting attractions outside of Nassau that make it worthwhile to rent a car or hire a taxi for the day.
West of Nassau
Head west out of Nassau and within a couple of minutes you’ll encounter three very different attractions. There’s no missing the austere gray ramparts of Fort Charlotte, which guards the western approaches to Nassau Harbour. Built by Lord Dunmore in 1787–89, during the Napoleonic Wars, and named after the wife of George III, this is the largest fort in the Bahamas. But not one shot was ever fired from here in anger — the only volleys ever launched were part of ceremonial salutes. Life must have been pretty boring for the soldiers as many had the time to carve their names in the stones along the battlements. Guides escort visitors around the interior of the fort as well as through the dungeons, which, thankfully, saw little torture. In fact Fort Charlotte is well regarded by New Providence residents as a shelter during hurricanes.
Nearby is Ardastra Gardens, Zoo, and Conservation Centre, a landscaped park famed for its pink flamingos, which are paraded three times a day into a small enclosure to offer visitors a closer look. These birds, once common in certain Bahamian islands, are now disappearing, though the reasons for the decline are disputed. Another endangered species, the Bahamian Parrot, is under threat from loss of habitat. The Gardens is one of only a small number of centers that has developed a breeding program for this vocal and gregarious bird in the hope of replenishing colonies in the wild. There are many more species of Caribbean mammals, reptiles, birds, and fish to find as you explore the 51⁄2 acres of tropical parkland.
Head back to the main coast road and you will find two small cays lying immediately offshore. The first is Arawak Cay, home to the local fishing fleet. A number of colorful shacks line the approach road where you can buy conch and fried fish, always fresh and always delicious. Weekends can be busy with local families. Travel through Arawak Cay to reach Silver Cay, where there is a small resort with a pretty beach. Here you will find Crystal Cay, site of a marine park where you can take a close look at the undersea world without getting wet. A man-made coral reef has been created on the sea bottom and you can watch all the marine activity from an underwater observatory. The reef attracts many kinds of aquatic creatures that are free to come and go as they please. The observatory looks decidedly futuristic and can be seen quite clearly from the road as you travel along the coast. Other activities at Crystal Cay include a sea turtle environment, a touch pool where you can stroke a sting ray or pet a conch, and a snorkel trail, if you want to get into the water yourself.
A little further west along the coast you will find Cable Beach, the third main center of tourism on New Providence. Several luxury hotels line the shore, only 5 minutes by car from central Nassau. The Nassau Marriott Resort Hotel attracts many visitors with its casino, stage shows, and restaurants. The Cable Beach “strip” is under continual development, and a number of private restaurants have opened recently to provide alternatives for guests staying at the resorts.
East of Nassau
The territory east and southeast of Nassau has seen a great deal of development in the last twenty years; many of the major residential areas that have sprung up hold little interest for visitors. One legacy of the past is Blackbeard’s Tower, said to have been a lookout post for the famous pirate. It is a little careworn and forlorn today and may be worth visiting only for its view of the harbor. Guarding the eastern entrance to Nassau harbor is tiny Fort Montague, least visited of the old colonial fortifications. It now looks out towards the pleasure palaces of Paradise Island.
Grand Bahama
Northwest of New Providence, Grand Bahama Island was largely ignored through colonial history and was for a long time a comparative backwater. That it is now the second most popular tourist destination in the Bahamas is all due to the forethought of one man — and a great deal of investment made since 1955. The British had little interest in developing Grand Bahama, but the island lies only 55 miles from the Florida coast, and in the post–World War II period it finally attracted the attention of developers. As the economy of the US grew and Bahamian–US trade increased, a group of businessmen, led by Wallace Groves, saw the potential in the development of Grand Bahama.
In 1955 the British government signed the Hawksbill Agreement, which gave Groves 50,000 acres (20,000 hectares) of land and a concession to import duty-free goods. In return Groves agreed to build a deep-water harbor and to encourage business development. First there was boom, then there was bust, but a container port opened in the 1990s is breathing new life into the flagging commercial sector. The opening of the first casino in 1964 sparked the tourist boom and, since then, Grand Bahama has been busy developing as a tourist “mecca.” Its modernity and the close links with the US create a totally different atmosphere and style compared to what you’ll find in New Providence, and many visitors enjoy the more “American” feel.
Freeport-Lucaya
The main settlement on Grand Bahama, Freeport-Lucaya is in fact two separate towns that have now grown together. In theory Freeport was the commercial center and Lucaya the coastal resort. In reality the two towns now mix so successfully it is difficult to tell where the dividing line is. Most of the island’s 40,000 people live here and the towns continue to develop. There are no historical attractions here but Freeport-Lucaya is happy to offer the alternative of unashamed hedonistic pleasure and relaxation.
Not surprisingly for a duty-free island, shopping plays a large part in a trip to Grand Bahama. International Bazaar in Freeport takes you on a shopping trip around the world. Enter the bazaar through the red Japanese Torii or “welcome gate” and you can visit France, Africa, and India, all within a few minutes. Unusual offerings such as rare stamps can be found among the standard duty-free shops that carry the most exclusive names in watches, jewelry, and perfume. Behind the South American area you’ll find the Perfume Factory, where you can create your own personal fragrance. Mix essential oils to balance with your skin and give a name to your exclusive product. You can even record the recipe on computer so that you can re-order the exact fragrance at a later date. The “factory” is set in a pretty 18th-century colonial mansion replica; five-minute tours take visitors into the small commercial production plant, where some of the Factory’s own signature perfumes are made.
Make your way past the Continental Pavilion at the back of the International Bazaar to reach Goombay Market. Here you’ll find an amazing range of straw work, wooden carvings, and other handicrafts. There are over 100 stalls, so it’s a great place to barter for a bargain.
Next door to the International Bazaar is the Princess Casino with its distinctive Moorish domes. You’ll be able to play alongside the “high rollers” at the roulette or craps tables or put a few coins in the slot machines. There is also a theater that hosts nightly dance show performances. The casino is part of the complex of the Bahamas Princess Resort and Casino, where you’ll also find a country club and two excellent 18-hole golf courses.
Lucaya is set on a fine sandy beach and the expansive Port Lucaya marina gives the whole resort a very nautical feel. A number of large hotels line the Lucayan Beach, their massive façades softened by the hundreds of masts of the yachts moored on the inlet. As of late 1999, the casinos and many of the hotels were being given a facelift and three of the larger hotels on the waterfront were being reconfigured into a single complex.
Port Lucaya Marketplace is the center of all activity for the town. During the day the duty-free shops in this Mediterranean-style shopping village tempt shoppers with jewelry, clothing, and perfume; colorful wooden huts house craft stalls selling straw work and carvings. As the sun sinks people gather at the marketplace after a day on the beach or sailing offshore. The streets come alive as bars and restaurants fill up and bands play live music at the Count Basie Bandstand in a square adjoining the marina.
On the south side of the marina, accessible from the main beach road, is the Underwater Explorers Society or UNEXSO. The oldest diving organization in the Bahamas, UNEXSO provides diving experience sessions and training courses. The large square building contains a diving pool and decompression chamber; those with no interest in actually practicing the sport can visit the museum, which charts the development of diving to the modern SCUBA (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) method developed by Jacques Cousteau in the 1930s. There is also a good restaurant on site, the Brass Helmet. A short boatride from Port Lucaya takes you to Sanctuary Bay and the UNEXSO Dolphin Experience. A family of bottlenose dolphins have set up home here. You can linger by the side of the bay and hope they come to you, get in the water and swim with them, or spend a day as an assistant trainer and help the staff care for these gentle creatures.
Just north of the Marina is the Lucayan Golf and Country Club, which has some of the best-groomed greens in the Bahamas and a very good restaurant for those who want to watch rather than play — diners enjoy panoramic views over the driving range and several holes.
Freeport-Lucaya may be a modern town of concrete and tarmac, but within the city limits are two natural areas that could be a million miles away from the bustle of the shops and large hotels. Rand Memorial Nature Centre, on 100 acres of land on East Settlers Way to the east of Freeport, is used as a resource for students on the island, but there’s nothing dry and academic about it. Here you can learn about the plants native to the Bahamas and find out which ones were used for bush medicine and for what purpose. A flock of flamingos and numerous other native bird species make their home here.
To the east of Lucaya on Midshipman Road is Parrot Jungle’s Garden of the Groves. This beautiful garden was created in tribute to Wallace Groves and his wife, and the 11 acres (41⁄2 hectares) contain more than 10,000 different plant species. The landscaping is delightful, with ponds, waterfalls, and shady places to sit and enjoy the view. A pretty chapel atop a small hill offers a fine vantage point over the whole park. For the child in all of us the small petting zoo is great fun.
Beyond Freeport-Lucaya
Grand Bahama is relatively easy to explore by car, with only one major road running east to McLean’s Town and another north to West End.
Eastern Grand Bahama
As you head east out of town you’ll soon leave the trappings of modernity behind and find yourself on a good road through acres of Bahamian forest. The road crosses a number of canals, and just off the south coast is Petersons Cay, a tiny but beautiful coral cay with a beach — a great spot for a day of swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing, and picnicking.
After traveling approximately 10 miles on the main road you’ll come to Lucaya National Park (there’s a small parking lot on your left). The 40-acre (16-hectare) park sits on both sides of the main road and protects a range of Bahamian ecosystems. Inland, trails lead to one of the largest surveyed cave systems in the world, much of which lies underwater. Ben’s Cave, also known as Bats Cave for reasons that will be obvious when you enter, is the most accessible and in fact rather small. It links to the larger caves through subterranean tunnels. The pool in the bottom has layers of fresh water lying on top of salt water. Remains of several Lucayan Indians that were found at the cave entrance are now being studied in Nassau. The caves are also home to a rare species of crustacean, spelonectes Lucayensis, which is said to resemble a swimming centipede. Ben’s Cave is closed during June and July to protect the bats during the breeding season.
From the right-hand side of the road, well-marked trails lead through the vegetation and out toward the coast, just a few hundred meters away (a line of casuarina trees marks the spot). Wooden walkways lead you farther out over a tidal mangrove swamp to Gold Rock Beach. One of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Gold Rock must really be seen at low tide to appreciate its full glory. At high tide a shallow layer of water, only a couple of inches deep, covers much of the beach, leaving only a narrow arc of sand above the waterline. This whole area can also be explored by bicycle or kayak or by taking an eco-tour. One of the companies that offers both eco- and cultural tours of the area is East End Adventures (Tel. 373-6662; e-mail <[email protected]>).
Western Grand Bahama
Heading west from Freeport-Lucaya, you’ll first travel past the cruise port and container port. Across from the entrance to the cruise port is Pier One Restaurant, where you can enjoy wonderful food and feed the sharks that gather underneath the terraces in the evening. Farther west, at Deadman’s Reef, are the remains of an ancient Lucayan settlement discovered in 1996.
The last settlement on the journey is West End, the oldest town on the island and today home to conch fishermen. Native Bahamians like to gather here on the weekends; there’s always a “fish fry” (kind of like a large communal barbecue) and plenty of Kalik beer for sale. During the rest of the week, the village takes on a sleepy air. There’s little evidence left of the bad old days of Prohibition when merchants and rum-runners here made fortunes smuggling liquor into the United States.
The Out Islands
The Bahamas has traditionally been divided into three entities: New Providence, Grand Bahama, and all the rest of the islands, brought together under the collective name of the Out Islands, sometimes also referred to as the Family Islands. Most of the Out Islands are sparsely populated, and the traditional ways of island life are much more prevalent than they are on the two main islands. The rhythm of life is slower, communities are smaller, and time seems to stand still. What activity there is centers around the boats that continually move quietly in and out of the harbors.
The Abacos
A vaguely boomerang-shaped cluster of islands east of Grand Bahama, the Abacos offer perfect waters to explore by boat. Stretching for some 130 miles, the Abaco group consists of “mainland” Little Abaco and Great Abaco and an attendant string of hundreds of cays and islets. They are a sailor’s paradise because the numerous safe anchorages and bays have been enhanced in modern times by comprehensive back-up facilities for sailors.
The Abacos were settled by English Loyalists during and after the American Revolution, who brought with them the distinctive architectural and decorative style of New England. These new immigrants made a living from cotton production and collecting sponges, but after several disastrous harvests and a fierce hurricane, a group of Abaconians left to create a sister community on Key West off the southern tip of Florida. The people of the Abacos remained staunchly pro-British even into modern times, and of all the Bahamians they were the ones who expressed the most apprehension about the bid for independence in 1973.
Marsh Harbour, in the center of Great Abaco Island, is the proverbial heart of the Abacos. The town has a large harbor and has grown into a major sailing center. It is now the third-largest settlement in the Bahamas after Nassau and Freeport-Lucaya. Ships chandlers and hardware stores provide everything needed for the boats, and liquor stores and supermarkets have everything for the passengers and crew. A number of restaurants in and around the wide marina and bay provide opportunities for intimate dining experiences or rowdier live-music sing-alongs.
Although it is difficult to get to all the outlying cays without a boat (see page 98 for information about rentals), Marsh Harbour makes a good base for trips to the central section of the Abacos cays. A network of reliable ferry services runs to all the major cays, most of them no more than 30 minutes offshore.
Elbow Cay, southeast of Marsh Harbour, is the most popular, and its capital, Hope Town, is one of the most charming spots in the Bahamas. Yachts at anchor clutter the nearly circular harbor beneath a candy-striped lighthouse few photographers can resist. Rising 120 ft (37 m) above sea level, the Hope Town Lighthouse can be seen from a distance of 17 miles (27 km). When it was built in 1864 it helped drastically reduce the number of shipping accidents and shipwrecks, but it was unpopular with the native people who relied on lucrative salvage activities to make a living. It is one of only three manual lighthouses in the Bahamas and has to be turned throughout the day and night by a team of dedicated lighthouse workers. Climb the 101 steps to the top for fantastic views over the whole of Elbow Cay.
A pretty little village of pastel-colored clapboard houses, Hope Town is full of friendly locals. Kids run safely in the streets of the traffic-free town center and along the Queens Highway, only slightly wider than a sidewalk. Shoes are optional in the bars at the water’s edge, and as the sun sets you’ll hear a thousand stories here about the one that got away. Watch out for the sign “Tourists treated just like locals,” for you’ll soon feel as though you’ve lived here forever. You’ll be exchanging greetings, and before you know it, life stories. The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum on Queens Highway is the place to find out more about these fascinating people and their home island.
To the northwest of Marsh Harbour is Man-O-War Cay, a small island of only 300 inhabitants famous for its boatyards. The dinghies and runabouts built here are hand-crafted; cotton is used to seal gaps between the wooden planks. The boats are then sunk so that the wet cotton expands to make them watertight. Man-O-War is unusual in that it has always been a dry cay — no alcohol is sold anywhere.
Great Guana Cay, northwest of Man-O-War, has wonderful long, lonely beaches that run for miles along the island’s eastern rim. A total of only 600 people live in the island’s few small settlements, and the chief activity seems to be sitting under the large fig tree on the harbor front and gossiping. Sailors touring through the Bahamas love to anchor offshore here — this serene spot is one of the best places to switch off the rest of the world. Those who don’t have their own transport can take one of the four ferries that run over every day from Marsh Harbour.
North of Marsh Harbour you’ll see signs for Treasure Cay, which is, strictly speaking, a peninsula rather than a cay. The land here has been developed into one of the largest resort areas outside the two main islands. A large marina and 18-hole golf course attract a mixed group of people but the initial lure, and reason for the whole development, is Treasure Beach, one of the best in the whole Caribbean. This 6-mile arc of soft sand was for many years a Bahamian secret.
An airport north of Treasure Cay serves the resort and the northern offshore cays. A regular ferry service links with the flight times. Twenty minutes offshore is Green Turtle Cay. Much more lush than many of the other islands in the Bahamas, this hilly, 3-mile- (5-km-) long cay is covered with pine woodland that camouflages many of its houses and resorts. A Loyalist settlement dating from 1783 — groups of colonists were evacuated from Savannah and Charleston along with black slaves who escaped their owners — Green Turtle in recent years has become a getaway for the rich and famous. The hotels here have all the luxuries you could ever need, yet you might feel as if you’re a million miles away from the worries of the world. The cay is small enough to explore on foot but most people choose to rent a golf cart or bicycle (your hotel can make the arrangements).
New Plymouth is the largest town on the cay. It really has only one main route, Parliament Street, which is full of trim and brightly painted wooden homes with picket fences. As you walk down the street you’ll hear the sounds of daily activity floating through the open windows, occasionally a radio station with news, or maybe evangelical songs. You can browse in the general stores and souvenir shops or visit one of the small art galleries that sell original works and prints by local artists. On the left as you walk away from the harbor you’ll find the Memorial Sculpture Garden, dedicated to the brave settlers who founded New Plymouth. A little farther along, on the right, the Albert Lowe Museum, in an 18th-century house, is brim full of artifacts and knickknacks, maps, and newspaper articles that tell the story of New Plymouth. Lowe was a sailor and prominent shipbuilder. The house is now owned by Roland Alton Lowe, a descendant of Albert and an acclaimed Bahamian painter; his paintings and prints are sold at the museum. Abaco Gold necklaces, bracelets, and rings — including some with turtle and conch shell motifs — are sold at the Sand Dollar Shoppe on Parliament Street (Tel. 365-4221).
Eleuthera
The longest unbroken island in the Bahamas, slender Eleuthera (pronounced “e-LOOTH-ra”) extends 100 miles (160 km) from north to south yet has many stretches that are barely half a mile (1 km) wide. Some of the wildest Bahamian landscapes are to be found on this island that seems to be more in touch with the moods of the sea than other islands are. The rocky outcrops and sometimes towering waves on the east contrast with calm waters and sandy flats on the west. In the northwest a series of cays and sand banks reach out to fill the 60 miles (96 km) or so between Eleuthera and New Providence.
Modern Bahamian history began on this island in 1648 when the Eleutherian Adventurers, led by William Sayle, arrived from Britain and Bermuda and founded their shaky colony. They landed near the site of Governor’s Harbour on the middle of the island, but after a period of feuding Sayle and some of his followers moved north to Harbour Island and Spanish Wells. Their descendants still live there today. Although they named the island Eleuthera, you may find that the local people call the island Cigatoo, its old Lucayan name.
Harbour Island, called “Briland” by the locals, sits off the northeastern corner of the main island. You can reach it via a 15-minute ride on a small ferry; taxis from North Eleuthera Airport run reliable service to the docks for a set price per person. The island’s main town, Dunmore Town, is a cluster of narrow streets lined by clapboard houses festooned with bougainvillea; handsome roosters strut here and there in the undergrowth. Boat building and sugar production used to be the main ways the inhabitants earned a living; rum production also made the town popular with Americans during Prohibition. Now tourism is the major industry.
Bay Street runs along the harbor-front, where you’ll find a small straw market — five or six colorful stalls hugging the beach — and the tourist office at the end of the jetty. Wandering around (you can stroll over the entire island in a few hours) you’ll find the Loyalist Cottage, a late-18th-century settler’s home, as well as several simple churches, including the oldest Anglican church in the Bahamas, St. John’s. A number of souvenir shops in the houses have some interesting Bahamian and European gifts.
The beautiful pink sand beach on the Atlantic side of the island is also a big draw. The five miles of sand are a beautiful sight, especially in the early morning or just before sunset when the color reflects more deeply. Any of the several luxury hotels tucked just behind the dunes make a good base for the beach or the delights of the town, only a few minutes’ walk away.
Just off the northern tip of Eleuthera is Spanish Wells. In the 16th century the Spaniards sank a well here to supply their treasure fleets with fresh water for the long journey back across the Atlantic. The people of Spanish Wells are noted seamen and farmers (they were given land to farm on the main island in the 18th century); many still make their living by fishing for crawfish, grouper, yellowtail, and conch, or by building boats, though the best-known local product is perhaps the wide-brimmed Spanish Wells straw hat. Not as much a tourist resort as Harbour Island, this quiet settlement nevertheless attracts visitors with its beaches, marina, and miles of offshore reef, particularly good for diving. The Spanish Wells Museum (open Mon–Sat 10am–12pm and 1–3pm) records the island’s history and culture.
On the northern coast of Eleuthera Island is Preacher’s Cave, the spot where the original adventurers are said to have been shipwrecked. It is cathedral-like in its dimensions. The settlers wrote their names in charcoal on the walls of the cavern and erected a stone altar for their services (unfortunately the entrance to the cave is now littered with rubbish left by modern travelers). Several deserted beaches nearby, including Preacher’s Cay Beach, Bain Bay, and Ridley Head, offer opportunities for solitude or very good close-to-shore snorkeling.
A few miles south of North Eleuthera Airport the island narrows to a rocky ridge just 80 ft (24 m) wide. Over the millennia, an arched hole had been created here by the pounding of the waves of the Atlantic; known as the Glass Window, this opening made it possible for sailors on the Exuma Sound to see “through the island” to the Atlantic. The natural bridge that had been formed at the top of the arch collapsed years ago during a hurricane and today you pass over the still dramatic gap from north to central Eleuthera on the man-made Glass Window Bridge. The bridge requires continual maintenance because storms, hurricanes, high winds, and heavy seas take a constant toll; in turbulent weather the Atlantic rises in great waves pushing towards the still, calm Caribbean.
The first settlement after Glass Window Bridge is Gregory Town, a pretty hillside community of colorful houses overlooking a tiny harbor. This is the capital of pineapple production in the Bahamas. Try the fresh pies from Thompson’s Bakery on the top of a hill east of the harbor. Halfway down the island is Governor’s Harbour, a photogenic town set on the sheltered eastern coastline. It is a major center for sailors, who come here to stock up on all the essentials, obtain spare parts, and have repairs done.
Windermere Island, just off the east coast, was once the place to be in the Bahamas, but its smart resort hotel is now closed. Jacques Cousteau had a home here and used it as a base for exploring the seas around the other Bahamian islands.
Southern Eleuthera is served by an airport near the little town of Rock Sound, which is famed for its blue hole, which Jacques Cousteau spent time investigating. Although it is only half a mile from the Caribbean side of the island, it actually reaches out several miles to the Atlantic Ocean and has yet to be fully explored.
Andros
Andros is the largest island of the Bahamas — at a little over 100 miles (160 km) long and 40 miles (64 km) wide, it’s almost four times larger than any other island in the Commonwealth — though much of its territory is covered by uninhabitable mangrove swamp and coral limestone escarpments divided by wide creeks. The island is fringed by miles of shallow sand flats on the west and ringed by coral reef on the east. Perhaps because of its vastness and rugged terrain, Andros became a favorite of the pirate fleets; one of its major settlements is called Morgan’s Bluff after the pirate leader Henry Morgan, who is said to have buried treasure on one of the beaches in the area.
In 1821 a group of Seminole Indians left their native Florida and settled on the northern tip of the island. Their descendants still live around the town of Red Bays, practicing the skills of basket weaving for which they are greatly admired. Their work, which is of extremely high quality, is said to be so tightly woven that the baskets can hold water.
The family of Neville Chamberlain, the British Prime Minister who attempted to negotiate with Hitler before World War II, created a sisal farm on the island, but the attempt failed miserably.
Andros is famed for its natural attractions: It has the third longest barrier reef in the world, lying just one mile (11⁄2 km) offshore and stretching 140 miles (225 km) down the east coast. This makes it a popular destination with divers who come to explore the tidal shallows, the reef, and the deep reef walls, which plunge 6,000 ft (1,829 m) down into the Tongue of the Ocean, the deep passage between Andros and New Providence. Numerous species of sea life flourish at every level and contribute to the abundant variety of diving environments available for all ability levels. Experienced divers also come to explore the numerous so-called “blue holes” that dot the interior of the island. Created by erosion of the limestone rock, these holes have a layer of fresh water that lies on top and tidal sea water below; sea water forced in through countless underground fissures causes their water levels to rise or fall with the tides. Andros is awash with fresh water, which is put to good use: over 6 million gallons are pumped into tankers each day and shipped across to New Providence, where fresh water is much in demand.
The miles of shallow “flats” that meet the mangrove swamps along the west coast are an ideal environment for bonefish, and Andros lays claim to being the Bonefishing Capital of the World. The fishing is extremely challenging, either from boats off the island or by wading in the shallows just offshore. Onshore, Andros is a bird watcher’s paradise — hardwood forests of Bahamian mahogany and mangrove and smaller areas of pine offer a varied habitat to over 120 native and migratory species.
Most of the major settlements lie along the eastern side of the island. They are widely scattered, from Congo Town in the south through Andros Town to Nicholls Town in the north. Getting around the island is time consuming and difficult because it is divided by wide creeks, swamps, and lakes, but each of these main settlements is served by an airport.
At Andros Town, known as Fresh Creek to local people, there are a few facilities for visitors and a number of small hotels. One of the most popular Bahamian souvenirs is produced nearby. Androsia batik — brightly colored cotton fabric with tropical fish, turtle, or fruit motifs — is hand-produced at a small factory just outside the capital. You can watch the patterns being pressed in wax onto the white cotton fabric and view the skeins as they’re allowed to dry naturally in the warm Bahamian sun. The finished batik is then used to make clothing and other products in the small factory next door. The products are available in shops all over the Bahamas, but you can save a good deal by buying direct from the factory.
The Exumas
Running in a 100-mile (160-km) chain directly south of New Providence, the Exumas have a cay for every day of the year, though some of these tiny islands are only a few hundred square feet in size and most are uninhabited. The breathtaking waters surrounding these islands, ranging from turquoise blue to jade green, are a sailor’s delight, and numerous yachts can be seen weaving around the sandy shallows and cutting through to deeper water.
The name Exuma is said to be a derivation of the two Lucayan Indian words that had been used for this group of islands, yumey and suma. The largest Exuma Cays were settled by British Loyalists following the American Revolution. Chief among these was Dennis Rolle, who brought over 100 slaves with him to start a cotton plantation. This venture began to fail after only a few years but Dennis passed the land onto his son John. In 1834 slavery was abolished and John Rolle freed his slaves and deeded the Rolle land on to them “in commonage” at his death. This allowed only those directly related to the Rolle slaves to farm or build on the inherited land. Today most of the native inhabitants of the Exumas bear the family name Rolle.
The Exumas are divided into three distinct sections: Great Exuma Island, Little Exuma Island, and the Exhuma Cays, which lie north of the main islands. The capital, George Town, on Great Exuma Island, is served by regular flights from Nassau and makes the most convenient base for non-sailors. It has a sleepy and laid-back atmosphere and offers a couple of hotels and restaurants. A compact straw and vegetable market sits at the main crossroads. The town lies on the coast at Elizabeth Harbour, a large, sheltered stretch of water that is a popular stopping off point for sailors. The quiet town comes to life every April when it hosts the Family Island Regatta. Thousands of Bahamian working boats fill Elizabeth Harbour, their crews vying for the right to call themselves champion of the regatta.
From George Town you can take the short ferry trip to nearby Stocking Cay. The ten-minute journey across the sound (courtesy of the Club Peace and Plenty hotel) takes you to an island of sublime beaches, underwater caves to dive in, and rocky inlets to explore by snorkel. You can find sand dollars and starfish and spot rays and turtles. The few holiday homes do nothing to spoil the natural beauty, and you’ll still be able to find a deserted beach in one of the many sheltered bays.
Much of Great Exuma is given over to agricultural production , providing the island New Providence with a lot of its fresh produce. Staples like onions as well as such “exotics” as avocados are grown in the interior. The only other major settlement besides George Town is Rolle Town, once part of the Rolle estate. It is said that the original inhabitants of this town were the family’s domestic slaves; the plantation slaves made their home at Rolleville farther north. A number of tombs in Rolle Town date from the earliest days of Loyalist settlement.
A little bridge links Great Exuma with Little Exuma in the south. Until the bridge was opened in 1966 the only way to reach the island was by ferry boat, and the first small settlement on the Little Exuma side is called, appropriately, The Ferry. Here you can meet with the “Shark Lady.” The first woman to captain a boat in the Family Regatta, Gloria Patience was given her nickname because of the many sharks she has caught. She has created a small museum in her home, the only one of its kind in the Exumas, to document and illustrate the history and lifestyle of the island’s people.
Traveling north from George Town you’ll pass Three Sisters Rock, a formation that lies just offshore from a sandy beach; the three rocks are said to represent three sisters who drowned in the waters here. Gradually the island narrows, and past Rolleville, Great Exuma gives way to the Exuma Cays, a ribbon of small islands of which only four are inhabited. Stanial Cay offers accommodation as well as yachting supplies. It also has an airfield with regular service from Fort Lauderdale on the Florida coast. These cays are home to the endangered iguana along with numerous rare plant species. A 22-mile (35-km) stretch north of Conch Cut has been protected for future generations by the creation of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, 175 sq miles (453 sq km) of land and sea that includes some of the best yet most remote beaches in the Bahamas. The park is only accessible by boat — except for the occasional powerboats bringing passengers over from Nassau for a day of snorkeling and picnics on the beach, the only sounds you’ll hear will be the wind whipping through the sails of yachts anchored offshore.
Bimini
Two tiny islands only 9 sq miles (23 sq km) in total area, North and South Bimini lie just 50 miles (80 km) east of Miami in the midst of some of the best sport fishing waters in the world. Both have had an illustrious list of admirers. Ponce de Leon searched for the Fountain of Youth here. Ernest Hemingway spent a lot of time fishing and writing here — photographs of this prominent visitor still adorn the walls of the Compleat Angler Hotel, where he wrote To Have and Have Not. American politician Adam Clayton Powell, who was regularly seen at the marina of Alice Town, the major settlement, helped raise the profile of the place in the eyes of Americans. The islands flourished during the years of American Prohibition, when many came here to enjoy a shot or two of hard liquor.
Alice Town with its bars and hotels is still the center of the action. A series of fishing competitions make up a “season” for the rich, bright, and beautiful, who descend to fish during the day and enjoy the lively social scene after dark. Although Bimini does not have the casinos and stage shows of Nassau and Grand Bahama, the Hemingway legacy seems to keep the bars along the quay in a perpetual state of jovial excess. Offshore in only 15 ft (41⁄2 m) of water, lies the famed ancient roadway said to be part of the lost city of Atlantis.
The Berry Islands
This group of islands north of Andros and New Providence, only 12 sq miles (41⁄2 sq km) in all, are known as the “fishbowl of the Bahamas” because of the rich seas around them. They are a paradise for fishermen, divers, and snorkelers. Scattered across some of the prettiest seas in the Bahamas, with shallow sand banks and a thousand translucent hues of green and blue, these cays can be seen quite clearly from the air on flights from Florida. They can also be explored by boat; anchoring in the sheltered waters provides outstanding opportunities for swimming and snorkeling.
Two of the Berry Islands offer tourist facilities. Chub Cay, nearest to Nassau, is a favored sport-fishing resort — anglers sail out from here to the northern tip of the Tongue of the Ocean to catch marlin. Scuba divers and snorkelers enjoy the shallow reefs close to the island. The shallow coral reef off Mamma Rhoda Rock, a brief motorboat ride from Chub Cay marina, is an outstanding experience. Great Harbour Cay, covered with silver-top palms and sea grape, is a pretty island with a number of marvelous beaches. At the impressive marina, yachtsmen — many visiting from the Florida coast — park in slips beneath their townhouses.
Cat Island
Cat Islanders can still be said to be living a little in the past. For one thing, they dispute nearby San Salvador’s claim to be the landing place of Columbus; they still feel, as archaeologists and historians used to, that the explorer first made landfall on their island. The Cat Islanders also retain a powerful attachment to obeah, the world of spirits and natural healing.
The island itself also has peculiarities that separate it from other Bahamian Islands. It is the most undulating of the islands; one could even call it hilly, with the highest point of land in the Commonwealth, Mount Alvernia, rising to the heady heights of 216 ft (66m) above sea level.
Many visitors come to this island, named after an English sea captain called Catt, for its beautiful quiet beaches. Fernandez Bay, with its arc of fine sand on the protected western side of the island, is said to be the finest in the Bahamas, and the nearby beach at Old Bight is not far behind in terms of beauty. Though you can’t go wrong anywhere on the western coast.
Mount Alvernia, in the center of the island, is not far from the airfield at New Bight. This settlement originally served as a hermitage for Father Jerome, an Anglican missionary who had converted to Catholicism and become an influential churchman on the Out Islands, responsible for the erection of a number of Catholic Churches. Father Jerome built a small Hermitage on the heights of Mount Alvernia that you’ll see as you reach the summit (a 15-minute walk from a rudimentary car park); the missionary was buried in a small hilltop cave here upon his death in 1956 at the age of 80. A more recent famous Cat Islander is the actor Sidney Poitier, who was born in Arthur’s Town in the north. He is now non-resident Bahamian Ambassador to Japan.
San Salvador
This tiny patch of land, 63 sq miles in area, is at the center of a momentous turning point in history, for it was here that Christopher Columbus first made landfall in the New World, on 12 October 1492. One can only imagine the relief of his crew, and perhaps Columbus’s own sense of satisfaction that his theories had proved to be correct (though not entirely, since he assumed he had found the Indian subcontinent).
Around the shoreline of San Salvador are four separate places that are purported to be the site of Columbus’s landing. No one will ever know for sure, of course, but the competition continues. After the Spaniards went on to other islands in the Caribbean, the island became a base for English pirate John Watling; indeed until 1926 it was known as Watling’s Island.
The interior of San Salvador is dotted with lakes; there is a great deal of marshy land and only one major road. Cockburn Town (pronounced “KOE-burn”) is the capital. Pride of place in the town goes to the small jail found by the main coast road. It’s now a museum because, as one resident said, “we don’t have no need for no jail.” (The opening hours are irregular.)
The main road leads around the circumference of the island. Heading south from Cockburn Town you’ll first come to Long Bay, the “official” site of Columbus’s landing. It is marked by a plain white cross that sits bright and stark against the azure-blue ocean on the seaward side of the road. The area has been designated as Landfall Park. Another monument, to the 1968 Olympics in Mexico, sits a little way from the cross. This depiction of the Olympic rings on a circular plinth is here because the Olympic flame was brought to San Salvador on its way to Mexico.
At the northeastern corner of the island is Dixon Hill Lighthouse. Built in 1856 but improved in subsequent years, it is called the last hand-operated kerosene-powered lighthouse in the Bahamas. Its beam can be seen for some 20 miles (32 km).
San Salvador has developed a reputation as one of the best places in the Bahamas for reef wall diving. The walls off the western coast are almost vertical in places, and schools of hammerheads can be seen regularly in the pristine waters. The island has only two hotels, but a well-organized dive center runs a professional program for those who want to explore the seas off the island.
Long Island
When Columbus sighted this island he stated that it was the most beautiful that he had ever seen. He named it Fernandina in honor of the King of Spain, but the English called it Long Island because of its appearance — 66 miles (106 km) long and no more than 4 miles (61⁄2 km) in width.
The Spaniards wiped out the population of Lucayan Indians who lived here, and the island remained unpopulated for over 200 years, until it was settled by a number of Loyalist families from the American colonies. They attempted to grow cotton in the thin layer of soil but were unsuccessful, and at the announcement of emancipation they abandoned the island, leaving their slaves behind.
Today excitement centers on the resort of Stella Maris in the north, which was developed in the 1960s by a group of German businessmen. One of the premier diving sites in the Bahamas, the resort was one of the first to develop shark-feeding programs at Shark Reef, famous feeding grounds of these formidable creatures. The waters sweep over dozens of pretty beaches, and rocky outcrops provide ideal areas for snorkeling. The finest beach is at the very northern tip of the island — Cape Santa Maria (named by Columbus after his own ship) is a vast empty expanse of yellow sand and blue sea.
Long Island’s one main road runs like a backbone down its length. This highway creates an artificial divide between the two very different coastlines. In the east, the Atlantic Ocean crashes against cliffs of coral. In the west, the gentle seas lap shallow sand banks that stretch towards the southern Exumas.
Traveling south from Stella Maris you’ll pass uninhabited mangrove swamps on the way to the small town of Simms, an unhurried old settlement known for its distinctive straw-work, which craftswomen are delighted to show visitors. At Deadman’s Cay you’ll find an extensive cave system with faded Lucayan rock drawings. After passing small pineapple and banana plantations, you’ll reach attractive Clarence Town, with its two large churches — one Anglican, the other Roman Catholic — built by Cat Island hermit architect Father Jerome. The blue hole at nearby Turtle Cove, a half-mile walk from the road over rough terrain, provides a memorable diving experience, though it’s interesting even from the rim. The hole is about 80 yards (73 m) across and at least 600 ft (183 m) deep; you’ll sometimes see large turtles and tarpon in the waters.
Crooked Island and Acklins Island
These two islands lie 225 miles (360 km) south of Nassau and are totally off the beaten path for most tourists today, though they were often visited during the age of steam ships. Columbus described them as “the fragrant islands” after the smell of cascarilla, an indigenous tree; the bark is a major ingredient in perfumes, medicines, and in the Italian aperitif Campari. The Ocean Den marine cave system in the Bight of Acklins is one of the most impressive in the Bahamas. The totally unspoiled long sandy beaches provide a rich environment for birds and animal life. The area to the west of the two islands is a shallow sheltered lagoon where many small cays offer protection to a rare species of iguana.
Crooked Island has challenging diving sites, particularly along the reef wall off its northern shore line. Aklins has good bonefish flats with virgin fish shoals, though there are few tourist facilities and as yet no major plans to expand facilities.
Mayaguana Island
This island 75 miles (120 km) east of Acklins Island, is perhaps the least visited and least developed of all the inhabited Bahamas islands. It has few telephones and electric power is only a recent development. The settlement of Pirates Well harks back to the days when it was a safe outpost for ruthless gangs, but today’s population makes a living from fishing and farming.
Inagua
Great Inagua and Little Inagua Islands are the most southerly of the Bahamas — Great Inagua lies just 50 miles (80 km) from the coast of Cuba. The primary sources of employment are fishing and salt collection; over 1 million tons of salt are exported each year. There are few tourist facilities here, and both islands are natural and unspoiled, hosting many rare forms of wildlife. Inagua National Park on Great Inagua has the largest breeding colony of the West Indian Flamingo left in the world; the population of over 60,000 is found around Lake Windsor and Lake Rosa in the interior of the island. The park also supports a turtle-breeding ground and provides a home to wild boar and wild donkeys.
Excursions Outside the Bahamas
Greater Miami
Miami is America’s youngest big city. Development began only in 1896, when the Florida East Coast railroad was extended to the region. In the 1920s the region began to attract wealthy Americans from the north, who came to escape the cold winters. Since Castro’s revolution in Cuba greater Miami has welcomed millions of Cuban and other Latin American settlers. The area has strong trading links with South and Central America and the Caribbean. Today cruise ships, yachts, fishing boats, and freighters keep the waterfront humming while traffic never ceases along the futuristic network of expressways; and Miami’s sprawling international airport is one of the busiest in the US.
Miami is alive with energy. A fusion of styles has put the city at the forefront of American art, dance, music, and cuisine. Downtown, the Bayside shopping center has revitalized the docks area. Chain stores and craft stalls sit alongside cafés and bars, and on weekends there’s live music on stage at the center’s main plaza.
The city’s first language is in fact Spanish; more than one-third of the inhabitants are Hispanic, many of whom live in Little Havana, west of downtown. Though many Cubans have now moved on to wealthier neighborhoods this city-within-a-city full of small shops, cafés, and restaurants still has the flavor of the old life. Watch the men play dominos in Maximo Gomez Park on SW 8th Street — Calle Ocho — and listen to their stories of the old days.
To the southwest of downtown is Coral Gables, discreet retreat of the rich and very rich, and full of touches of old Spanish architecture. Look for beautiful Columbus Boulevard, with its arched canopy of spectacular banyan trees. Waterways at the back of the houses lead out to the sea and the intercoastal waterways that surround the city.
In fashionable Coconut Grove, one of the oldest parts of Greater Miami, a shopping and entertainment center attracts visitors and locals alike. The surrounding streets have pretty boutiques that cater to the needs of the wealthy inhabitants. Bahamian timber schooner laborers are given credit for settling Coconut Grove, where today the prices of the most expensive condominiums run into hundreds of thousands of dollars.
South of metropolitan Miami, you’ll see hundreds of colorful parrots, macaws, flamingoes, and other tropical birds in the rain forest foliage of Parrot Jungle. Another park where you can meet the animals is Monkey Jungle. Metrozoo, a cageless facility, displays animals compatible with the south Florida climate.
Vizcaya, an Italianate mansion set in 10 acres (24 hectares) of formal gardens by the water’s edge, is now a museum with 70 rooms full of treasures. One of the first Miami millionaires, James Deering, hired a huge team of workmen to construct the house in 1916. See the breakwater offshore, in the form of Cleopatra’s barge.
Take the Rickenbacker Causeway from Miami to Key Biscayne to get to one of Miami’s star attractions, the 60-acre (148-hectare) Seaquarium. You’ll see dozens of exotic creatures from the ocean depths. Watch them being fed in the gigantic aquarium tanks, then join up with the crowd outside to see one of the shows. The most spectacular of them features a 9,500-pound (4,318-kg) killer whale who leaps gracefully more than 20 ft (6 m) out of the water, only to fall back again in a thunderous crescendo of dazzling spray.
From Downtown Miami take the MacArthur Causeway east to Miami Beach and the wonderful Art Deco District of South Beach, or “SoBe,” as the locals call it. Many of the hotels and public buildings were built in the boom period of the 1920s and had been left to decay as Miami spread to the west and other areas became more popular. Then in the 1980s, as developers began to regain interest in the area, a group of architects began a campaign to save the Art Deco masterpieces, and South Beach was reborn. Today it is one of the most fashionable places on earth: supermodels and film stars mix with ordinary folks at the bars, restaurants, and hip boutiques. The Art Deco District has been given a thorough facelift and the colorful, imposing buildings now shine just as they did in their first heyday. This is prime people-watching territory, because on South Beach, particularly along Ocean Drive, just about anything goes, and the action carries on well into the night. At any time of day, it’s worth strolling along Lincoln Road, a pedestrian zone lined with street-side cafés and collectibles shops.
Port Canaveral and Orlando
Many cruises to the Bahamas depart from Port Canaveral on Florida’s east coast, about halfway up the peninsula. This is an ideal jumping off point for a number of attractions of worldwide fame — the pleasures of Orlando and Walt Disney World and other theme parks are only 50 minutes away. Even closer, just 20 minutes away from the cruise port, is Cape Canaveral and the Kennedy Space Center.
Kennedy Space Center
On Cape Canaveral stands one of the most advanced complexes of technological gadgetry anywhere — the John F. Kennedy Space Center. Spread over 220 sq miles (570 sq km), the vast base is an engineer’s dream-come-true. The visitors center has a comprehensive collection of lunar modules, rockets, and space shuttle and skylab hardware; at the IMAX cinema, which runs almost continuously throughout the day, you can watch fantastic documentaries of launches, flights, and space walks.
Guided bus tours take you to the mammoth vehicle-assembly building (so huge that it is said clouds sometimes form inside) and to other fascinating displays of space technology in the National Aeronautics and Space Administration Museum. You may be lucky enough to visit on a launch day — earth satellites, space probes, and other research equipment are routinely launched from the Cape. Admission to the Center is free, but there is a charge for IMAX films and the guided tour.
Walt Disney World
They call it the “happiest place on earth,” which may be why more visitors now come here than to any other single attraction anywhere. Surprisingly, four of every five are adults. Disney World is styled as the most complete vacation destination in existence, offering sports, nightlife, sightseeing, shopping, camping, hotels, and restaurants all connected by an extensive, easy-to-use transportation network.
The heart of the complex is the 100-acre (40-hectare) Magic Kingdom, where it’s easy to confuse who’s real and who’s artificial. This is where the park began and where you can meet all your favorite Disney characters — you’ll be able to shake hands with Mickey and get a hug from Goofy. The park has seven sections, including Main Street, USA, with its re-creation of turn-of-the-century America facing the much photographed Cinderella Castle. For a gentle overview of the entire Magic Kingdom, try the aerial tramway at dusk as the lights are coming on.
Out of Walt Disney’s last dream of an Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow grew EPCOT Center, just south of the Magic Kingdom. This multimedia extravaganza’s projection of our planet’s past and future has all the high-tech displays and virtual-reality of your dreams. Take a ride through the human body, or dash around the world in an afternoon as you step into re-creations of 11 countries.
Disney’s Animal Kingdom takes you on a journey from the days of the dinosaurs to the present time. Imaginative state-of-the-art graphics and effects have been used to bring extinct creatures to life, and a large safari park allows you to view live animals in “almost” natural surroundings.
Walt Disney World also brings the classic films and characters to life at Disney–MGM Studios. With stunt spectaculars and re-creations of movie sets, this attraction shows how the finished films and animations you see on screen are created.
With all of these attractions plus three Water Parks, the Disney Quest Interactive games areas, Pleasure Island, Discovery Island, and the Wide World of Sports complex, there is enough activity to fill weeks of time for even the most energetic children, or adults.
Disney World is about 20 miles southwest of Orlando off Interstate Highway 4. It is open daily, and far into the night at peak periods. For information on the latest opening times, ticket prices, and information, call (407) 824-4321.
Disney Cruises
Disney Cruises run from Port Canaveral, stop at Nassau for a day, and then move on to Disney’s private Bahamian hideaway, “Castaway Cay,” for days of fun and relaxation. Cruises can be combined in packages that include time at Walt Disney World theme park and a Disney hotel within the park.
Sea World of Florida
A 7,000-pound (3,175-kg) killer whale is the astonishing main attraction at this exciting marine park. The genial black-and-white monster, named Shamu, leaps out of the water, stands on his head waving his enormous tail, lets handlers ride him, and nods his head to questions. Shamu is nearly 22 ft (61⁄2 m) long, eats 200 pounds (90 kg) of food and 50 vitamin pills a day. During a day at the park you can also watch a splendid dolphin ballet, cheer for sea lions playing volleyball, or view seals and penguins frolicking in their tanks. Children especially enjoy having a chance to feed the animals.
Sea World, 12 miles (19 km) southwest of Orlando at I-4 and the Bee Line Expressway, is minutes away from Disney World. It’s open daily, and the admission charge covers all shows. For information call (407) 351-3600.
Universal Studios Florida
This theme park where you can “ride the movies” is a huge complex of futuristic and computerized rides based on movie themes. Come face to face with Jaws or ride out a Twister. It feels as if you’re really part of the action as your carriage jolts around corners and flames lick close to your seat (all carefully choreographed for utmost safety). Enjoy the fun of the Nickelodeon Studios, where kids programming takes center stage. There are parades and stunt spectaculars and plenty of places to eat. Universal Studios is located off I-4; take exits 29 or 30B.
Orlando Flextickets offer a combination ticket for Sea World, Universal Studios, and the Wet-and-Wild water complex in Orlando; for details call 800-224-3838 of consult the Universal Studios’ website, <www.usf.com>.
