Where to Go
PROVINCE OF SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE:
Tenerife, El Hierro, La Gomera and La Palma(telephone code 928):
Tenerife
Area: 2,046 sq km (790 sq miles) — the largest island.
Population: 666,000
Tenerife is not only the largest of the Canaries geographically, it also offers the tourist more sights, more attractions, more towns and cities to explore, and more contrasts than any of the other islands. Where else can you look around a banana plantation and then take a short drive half-way up a mountain for a snowball fight?
Tenerife has been welcoming visitors from cold northern climes since the 19th century. However, the focus has changed from the cloudy, green north coast where Puerto de la Cruz was once the favorite resort (it is still enormously popular), to the hot, dry, arid south.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
The capital of Tenerife and the administrative center for the westerly Canaries, Santa Cruz is not a city in which tourists spend a great deal of time. The main square is the Plaza de España, in the middle of which stands a four-sided cross, a memorial to the dead of the Spanish Civil War. The huge, drab, gray building adjacent to the Plaza is the Cabildo Insular (local government headquarters) which also houses the tourist office and the Museo Arqueológico, with important exhibits illustrating the life and death rituals of Guanche society (see page 13). The museum is open Tuesday–Sunday 10am–8pm and the entrance fee is a mere 400 pesetas (free on Sundays). Back on the seafront, discover the Iglesia Matriz de la Concepción (Church of the Immaculate Conception). Dating from the early 16th century, this is the town’s most important historical building and contains several interesting relics, including Nelson’s faded battle flag.
Puerto de la Cruz
Puerto, as this town is often abbreviated to, has neither good beaches nor the abundant sunshine of the south, yet for many travelers it is the most complete resort on the island. It has been attracting convalescing northern Europeans for over a century and it maintains much of its colonial grandeur. The seafront promenade has been quite heavily commercialized but not at all spoiled, and the atmosphere is always lively without being boisterous. The main square, Plaza de Charco, is the hub of both tourist and local life, and its numerous cafés, restaurants, and shops are busy at all hours. Just off the square, the old town around the Puerto Pesquero is remarkably oblivious to change. Among the narrow streets with faded wooden balconies and carved doors are the Casa de Miranda, now a crafts shop and restaurant, and, oldest of all, the Casa de la Real Aduana (Customs House), built in 1620, facing the tiny port.
The problem of Puerto’s lack of a decent beach was brilliantly addressed by the late César Manrique who designed Lago Martiánez, which is open daily 9:45am to 5pm. This 3-hectare (8-acre) complex of tropical lagoons, cascading fountains and sunbathing terraces is cleverly landscaped with lush palms and black-and-white volcanic rocks to fit perfectly into the seafront, where the surf crashes spectacularly against the rocks.
There are numerous places on Tenerife competing for the attention of tourists, but there is one, just to the west of Puerto, that absolutely should not be missed. Loro Parque; (open daily 8:30am–5pm, admission: 2,900 ptas, r17.43) has the world’s largest collection of parrots — more than 300 species and subspecies. It is also home to the most eclectic array of animals including gorillas, chimpanzees, tigers, jaguars, alligators, sea-lions, dolphins and numerous other creatures that are exhibited in carefully and creatively, designed spaces. Look also for the underwater world of the aquarium and shark tunnel, and the newest, and undoubtedly most inventive display. The Planet Penguin, the largest Penguinarium in the world, covers 3,900 square m (nearly 1 acre) and has been created as a natural habitat for these engaging creatures. The temperature of their iceberg is kept at between -2º and 2º C (28º–36º F) with 12 tons of artificial snow falling on it daily through openings in the roof. The surrounding sea is chilled to 10º C (50º F). Visitors are conveyed around on a moving walkway that allows the King, Gentoo and Rockhopper penguins to be seen cavorting on land and in the water. Look also for the dolphin, sea lion, and parrot shows, and animal feedings.
Just north of Puerto, on the road to La Orotavo, there are two places, both open daily 9am–6pm, that have similar themes, but exhibit them in rather different ways. The oldest of these, and closest to town, is undoubtedly the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden), founded by royal decree in 1788. Covering some 2.5 hectares (6 acres), it has palms of every variety and the centerpiece is a huge South American fig tree whose enormous branches and roots have become intertwined into one great tree house. Further on, Bananera El Guanche provides fascinating insight into how a Canarian banana plantation operates. By way of a multi-lingual introductory video show, a surprisingly informative and entertaining brochure, and exhibits in its 12,000-sq-m (nearly 3-acre) park which boasts, besides numerous bananas, a superb collection of exotic trees, shrubs, flowers, and cacti from all over the world (open daily 9am–6pm; admission 1,000 ptas, r6.01).
La Orotava is a remarkably well-preserved, unspoiled old town set on a steep hill high above its old port, Puerto de la Cruz. Stately mansions, ancient churches, and cobbled streets are its trademarks. The twin towers, Baroque façade, and Byzantine dome of the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Concepción dominate a fascinating skyline that has remained virtually unchanged for centuries. Continue on up Calle San Francisco to the Casas de los Balcones (Houses of the Balconies). The balconies in question are inside the house’s courtyard and are some of the finest examples of their kind. This splendid 17th-century mansion and the Casa de Turista (built in 1590) opposite are now shops dedicated to Canary handicrafts.
North of Puerto
El Sauzal is important for its wines, and this industry is shown to its best effect at the Casa del Vino “La Baranda” (open Tuesday–Saturday 11am–8pm and Sundays and holidays 11am–6pm, admission free). See how the wine is made in the museum, then enjoy wine tastings and purchase your favorites from the shop. There is also a bar and restaurant, both with fine views over the coast. Tacoronte, nearby, is renowned for a much-venerated 17th-century figure of Christ. Known as the Cristo de los Dolores (Christ of Sorrows) it stands in the local church of the same name.
La Laguna, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO late in 1999, is Tenerife’s second largest town and known as the ecclesiastic and cultural capital of the island. However, it is not well-visited by tourists. Start at the Plaza del Adelantado, and a short way along Calle Obispo Rey Redondo is the cathedral of La Laguna with its landmark twin bell towers. It is a surprisingly modern structure in spite of its design, consecrated in 1913, over 400 years after the city was founded. Continue on the same street to the town’s oldest church, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción (Church of the Immaculate Conception), built in 1497. Its seven-story belfry and watchtower were added two centuries later. The interior is outstanding, with exquisite timber carvings on the ceiling and pulpit and an enormous Baroque altarpiece with Flemish panels.
West of Puerto
A full day’s outing from Puerto de la Cruz along the unspoiled north and west coasts covers some of the island’s most spectacular sights and scenery. Sleepy Icod de Los Vinos is the home of the botanical freak that is Drago Milenario, a 1,000-year-old Dragon Tree.
Continue west on the coast road from Icod to Garachico and after 6 km (3.7 miles) the tortuous descent begins. There are marvelous views looking directly down onto this compact little town of 6,000 inhabitants, set on a small peninsula with the waves crashing all around. The peninsula is actually formed from the volcanic debris that was deposited following a disastrous eruption in 1706, when most of the town and its inhabitants were destroyed. The best place to survey the aftermath of the petrified lava is from the beautifully preserved 16th-century Castillo de San Miguel. A lucky survivor, this fortress (note the heraldic arms above the doorway), is now devoted to handicraft sales. There is no beach to speak of here, but a very cleverly designed set of pools built into the rocks more than compensates. Despite the destruction, Garachico is a little gem. Neat houses boasting typically attractive Canarian balconies line cobbled streets, and old churches adorn pretty squares. Unmissable, also, is the large, uninhabited rock out in the bay, and it has managed to gain for itself a place in the spiritual life of Garachico. Without a patron saint of its own, the town has elevated the rock to be its saint!
Farther along the coast road, 8 km (5 miles) past Buenavista del Norte, lies the most westerly point on Tenerife, the Punta de Teno. From here there are panoramic views across to La Gomera and looking south to the massive cliffs of Los Gigantes. Turn back to Buenavista and take a marked turn inland to Masca. Be warned, though, this is absolutely not a drive to be undertaken by inexperienced or nervous drivers. Initially the road, although ascending through the arable mountainside, is no problem; but this soon changes once the entrance to the vertiginous valley is reached. One glance at the narrow, steeply twisting road on either side will be enough to realize why, up to only a few years ago, the picturesque tiny village of Masca could only be reached on the back of a donkey. All around is some of the most dramatic scenery on the island. However, if you are driving, you won’t have any time to savor it. The road clings precariously to the side of lush, green mountains cleft by deep, dark ravines and often zig-zags on itself in the tightest of hairpin bends. And it is far from unknown to have to reverse back down and around these bends, allowing other vehicles to pass. A stop at Masca is not just a pleasure, but also a relief. Relax at one of the restaurants down from the road, and enjoy the stupendous scenery before continuing south on an equally difficult drive, to rejoin the main road at Santiago del Teide.
A little farther south, turn off towards Puerto de Santiago, then walk out to the edge of the marina jetty to get the best view of the enormous sheer cliffs, up to 800 m (2,625 ft) high, known appropriately as Los Gigantes (The Giants).
The Central Area
There are several approaches to Las Cañadas National Park and Mount Teide. The park is well sign-posted from the road via La Orotava, but if you are coming from the north, then the most picturesque route is via La Esperanza. The small town soon gives way to a lush forest of giant pines and eucalyptus trees. Four km (21⁄2 miles) south at Las Raíces is where Franco met with his co-conspirators in 1936 (see page 20). An obelisk in the forest commemorates the event. As the road gains altitude and temperatures fall, the views become ever more spectacular. The Mirador Pico de las Flores looks out over to the southeast and the Mirador de Ortuño offers a panorama of the northern coast. Highest of all at over 2,000 m (6,562 ft), Mirador las Cumbres reveals Teide in all her glory.
The entrance to the National Park is El Portillo de las Cañadas, where there is a visitor center (open daily 9am–4pm). If you wish to walk in the park, pick up a leaflet or ask for information about the daily guided walks. Note that during winter the environment can become quite harsh, and you should never undertake walks without consulting staff at the visitor center first. At this point it is quite likely that you will be in the clouds; temperatures are very low, and in winter there may well be snow on the ground. The landscape becomes very lunar-like; it was around here that some of the filming for Planet of the Apes took place. The ascent to the top of Mount Teide can be made by climbing, or by the new cable car (teleférico), an eight-minute ride (open daily 9am–4pm, admission: 2,500 ptas, r15.03). Most visitors choose the cable car, but it’s worth noting that even after leaving the cable car it is still a good climb to the summit at 3,717 m (12,195 ft). However, if you really want to venture that far you have to go in person and with a photocopy of your passport, to the Office of the Parque Nacional del Teide (Calle Emilio Calzadilla, 5, 38002 Santa Cruz de Tenerife). Even then, there is a daily limit of just 50 people, for conservation sake, allowed up the last 200 m (219 yards) to the summit. Once there, you should be able to count off all the other Canary Islands and, on a good day, see North Africa. Impressive as Teide is, it is basically no more than a peak on the edge of a giant volcano which long ago erupted or imploded. Left behind is the vast Caldera (volcanic crater) which is most apparent from the area known as Los Roques. Los Roques are a group of giant, flamboyantly shaped lumps of volcanic rock rising out of the crater; often visited and photographed.
The East and South Coast
Candelaria is a town with deep religious roots. Legend has it that well before Christianity came to the Canaries an image of the Virgin was washed ashore here and worshipped by the Guanches, who were quite oblivious to its Christian significance. The Spaniards later built a church dedicated to the statue. Sadly, both the statue and the church were destroyed in 1826 when a tidal wave reclaimed the Virgin. The present over-sized basilica was built soon afterwards. The splendid new statue of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, the patron saint of the Canary Islands, is the object of a major pilgrimage in mid-August. The Guanches are not forgotten either: ten chieftains stand guard in a row, with their backs to the Atlantic. These idealized cavemen are truly noble savages.
Just south and inland from Candelaria is Güímar, which with the exception of one curiosity is easily overlooked. However, those with an interest in the history of these islands will be intrigued by the Pirámides de Güímar <www.fredolsen.es/piramides>. The step pyramids (also known as the Chacona pyramids) here didn’t become evident until the early 1990s. They came to the notice of the Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl, internationally acclaimed for his transoceanic crossings with prehistoric vessels and theories about human migration. After studying photos he came to the conclusion that the Chacona pyramids were similar in principal to those in the Old and New worlds. Subsequently, he took a personal interest and began to relate their existence to pre-Hispanic civilizations that either lived, or visited, the island. Today, on view, are not only the pyramids themselves, but models of Heyerdahl’s vessels, a video detailing his summaries and transoceanic crossings, and various other interesting audio-visual displays.
There is little else of interest after here until you reach the south of the island. The most popular tourist destinations in Tenerife are the adjacent resorts of Los Cristianos and Playa de las Américas. Los Cristianos used to be a small fishing port with a quiet little beach. It now plays host to hundreds of thousands of mainly British and fewer German vacationers each year and its small beach, inside the port, is woefully inadequate. Traces of the old town can still be found around the port, though it is difficult to locate anything but British or German bars and restaurants along the crowded beachfront.
Playa de las Américas was born in the 1970s and has quickly developed from a bare shoreline to the high-rise, high-energy, highly packaged resort it is today. Here the beachside bars are not Spanish, nor even international: they are mainly English. In the evenings, of course, the hundreds of English bars compete with each other, some even advertising which British beers they sell on local English radio stations, for this lucrative and ever thirsty market. Discos, too, are ever popular with the younger crowd, but when they spill out in the early hours of the morning, good-natured boisterousness can sometimes result in rowdiness. Beware, also, of the dangers of muggings.
On the other side of Playa de las Américas, but with a border as indistinguishable as that with Los Cristianos, is the newly popular area of Costa Adeje, but here it really is rather different. The wall-to-wall hotels, fast food places and other such popular activities with the English and Germans gives way to much more elegant, spacious, cleverly designed resort hotels offering such extensive facilities that you don’t even have to leave the property — creating a much more agreeable ambiance than that of its two near neighbors.
There is, of course, no shortage of entertainment facilities, and Puerto de Colón has become not just a favorite place to wander around and watch the boats, but a center for some really neat and unusual adventures that merit description. A submarine trip will appeal to most people and Submarine Adventure will take you under the ocean on a 45-minute trip in their yellow submarine. Through the picture windows you can monitor the progress, and the fish, yourselves. The highlight is when the submarine passes some wrecks on the sea bed which have become a haven for fish, notably an array of stingrays, some of which are frighteningly huge. Safari B.O.B. Diving has a more novel way of getting you underwater. B.O.B. stands for Breathing Observatory Bubble, and these are said to be the first in Europe. It is rather like a vertical scooter, and consists of a large bubble over your head and a steering apparatus by your waist. You get about 20 minutes of submerged time in the waters north of the port (open Monday–Thursday; Saturday.), and the cost is 6,500 ptas, r39.07 per person. Speed Boat Safari, NautiOcio Watersports is the latest, and fastest, water adventure; following an instructor you will drive your own boat exploring small bays and caves and stopping for swimming and snorkeling (all equipment provided: 10,000 ptas, r60.10 per person).
El Hierro
Area: 297 sq km (107 sq miles)
Population: 8,000
El Hierro has hardly any tourist facilities, no natural spectacles, and no good beaches, but it is pretty, quiet, and totally unspoiled. More than enough attributes, for many, to pay a visit. However, the configuration of the roads makes exploration a frustrating affair, as it is impossible to make a circular tour as roads just do not join up.
In the southwest corner of the archipelago El Hierro was, at one time, considered to be the end of the known world and for that reason it was used as the zero meridian, which has long since relocated to Greenwich.
Valverde
The only Canaries capital located inland, Valverde was built high on a mountainside to protect it from pirate raids, and is a very small town, with only a parador and a few other places offering tourist accommodation.
The Rest of the Island
From Valverde follow the road to Isora, a neat little village of well-tended gardens. There are three miradors to enjoy on the road to El Pinar. The name comes from the pinewood forests that in places make up a gentle rolling landscape of fields and trees reminiscent of northern Europe. As the road descends south the greenery eventually peters out into volcanic badlands, and at the tip of the island is the fishing port of La Restinga.
The switchback road down to Frontera passes fertile cultivated fields and the occasional disused lagar (winepress). The bell tower of the church here is something of an oddity, being divorced from its body and set on top of a small hill next to it. From a distance the tiny tower set against the massive cliff side seems terribly remote, but as you approach it the illusion disappears and the main road passes within feet of the church and tower. The cliffs here, and all along the stretch of north coast known as El Golfo, were once actually part of an immense volcanic crater. However, some 50,000 years ago one side of it slid, violently, into the sea, leaving behind a gigantic bay with a semi-circumference of 25 km (15.5 miles) and cliffs of up to 1,000 m (3,280 ft). Although the last eruption on the island was over 200 years ago El Hierro, actually, has the highest density of volcanoes in the archipelago. There are over 500 cones on the surface, with an additional 300 covered by lava flows.
The road west leads to the village of Sabinosa, and just south of here, though only accessible by a long journey, is the Ermita de los Reyes and the forest of El Sabinal. The forest is made up of juniper trees (sabinosas) which are incredibly and grotesquely twisted, stunted, gnarled, and, in some cases, almost bent double by the wind.
The Mirador de la Peña, 8 km (5 miles) west of Valverde, is the newest, the most impressive, and arguably the only real tourist attraction on the island. Those familiar with the work of César Manrique (see page 30) will not need an introduction. The views are marvelous and the restaurant is one of the best on the island.
LA Gomera
Area: 372 sq km (146 sq miles) — the sixth largest island.
Population: 17,000
La Gomera is, indeed, a dramatic and rugged mountainous island. It has a coastline that is dominated by dramatic cliffs — there are very few beaches, and the interior is full of vertiginous, mostly verdant, valleys that are often lined with narrow fields stepped into the sides of the mountains. For extra effect these valleys are more often than not covered by a ceiling of cloud, whisked in by the trade winds, which seem to perpetually hang over the island. In the center, there is the unusually dense growth of trees and fauna in what is the Parque Nacional Garajonay (open Tuesday–Sunday 9:30am–4:30pm). Less than 20 km (121⁄2 miles) from north to south, this amazing island has been declared a Property of Humanity by UNESCO. In fact, a third of the island, 12,450 hectares (30,774 acres) has been designated into seventeen protected areas. Such terrain, though, makes for difficulty in getting around, and even the Romans, had they ventured this way, would have found their legendary ability to build straight roads put to an impossible test. In fact, almost nowhere on the island will you find a straight stretch of road, everywhere you go the roads twist and turn continually, often turning back on themselves in hairpin bends. Making driving even more complicated is the fact that the roads, although improving, are often of poor quality, and the directional signs leave much to be desired.
Just 40 minutes away from Tenerife, La Gomera nevertheless remains unspoiled and authentic, with its steep, green, terraced hills and tranquil valleys.
San Sebastián
Capital and main port of the island, this small town will always be important as the place where Columbus took leave of the known world on 6 September 1492, on the voyage which revealed the New World. The Columbiana starts in the main square. A pavement mosaic shows the route of Columbus’s voyage, and next to the large tree is the Casa de Aduana (the old Customs House). According to folklore, Columbus drew water from the well here, took it to the New World, and used it to baptize America. Leading off the square, the Calle del Medio is the only street of any consequence in town and features more connections with the great navigator. The Iglesia de la Asunción, built between 1490–1510, looks and feels so old that you can easily imagine Columbus praying in a dark recess — as a plaque here tells us he did, in 1492. A little way up the street is the modest Casa Columbiana/Casa de Colón, which is supposedly where he stayed in La Gomera.
The North
The road from San Sebastián climbs steeply and the views soon become quite dizzying. The highest peak on La Gomera, Alto de Garajonay is 1,487 m (4,878 ft) — this is no great height by Canaries standards, yet the island often gives the impression of being a fearsome maze of eerie crags. The small town of Hermigua is the largest on the island after San Sebastián. Stop at the crafts center of Los Telares to take a look down into its green and fertile valley, and ask if you can try the local liqueur, mistela, whilst watching women making blankets and rugs on their antique looms. After this there are fine views of the impressive cliffs, and Agulo is a pleasant small town whose main feature is the domed Iglesia San Marco, which adjoins a monumental laurel tree in the plaza. This church was originally a mosque during a brief period of Moorish occupation in the 17th century.
A turn inland just before the village of Las Rosas is one of the entrances to the Garajonay National Park, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The Centro de Interpretación (information center); has a small museum, displays and gardens. The road then continues through the 4,000-hectare (9,884-acre) park to the La Laguna Grande restaurant, a hospitable, rough-and-ready sort of place, which is very popular with walkers. Unlike the national parks at the peaks of many of the Canary Islands there are no views from here, aside from at Garajonay itself, and an almost perpetual thick mist clings to the ancient, moss-covered trees. As there is little rainfall on La Gomera this mist, spawned by the mystical trade winds, assumes great ecological importance having given life to this sub-tropical forest.
The South
The main road from San Sebastián leads past three mighty volcanic plugs, which are nicknamed “the Chinese Hat,” “the Lion,” and “the Face of Christ” after their respective outlines. The windy pass of Degollada de Peraza offers spectacular views to both the north and the south, and the road splits here. Rather than continue on to Garajonay, turn left on an equally windy road that leads to Playa Santiago. Besides San Sebastián this is one of the few waterside communities on the island. The unpretentious little port and beach is almost totally unspoiled by any outward signs of tourism, even though the cliffs immediately to its east are home to the Jardín Tecina, a really special self-contained resort.
Continue inland, passing the new airport, and at Igualero turn west onto the minor road that crosses to Las Hayas. Stop in the small village of El Cercado where, almost next door to each other, there are the Rufina and Malria, two small stores where the owners make ceramic goods in the traditional manner. Watch as little old ladies fashion the clay, and then be tempted to purchase the end results, or other goods and antiques that are on sale. Be surprised, also, by the prices; they are nearly as steep as the island’s cliffs and valleys! From Las Hayas continue along to the main road at Arure where, immediately after turning left, there is a small bodega selling wines not only from La Gomera but from throughout the Canary Islands too. La Gomera actually has about 300 hectares (741.3 acres) of vineyards mostly cultivated on uneven land with steep slopes and small terraces. A stop at the highest point of this road is a must: The views from the combined mirador/restaurant Escuela César Manrique of the Valle Gran Rey (the multi-tiered valley not the town of the same name) below are stupendous. The small town of Valle Gran Rey even has a beach of some size, albeit of black sand, and accompanying restaurants. Follow the road back through the valley, continue on past Arure and then make a right at the T-junction with the other main road, and this leads all the way back to San Sebastián de La Gomera, passing La Laguna Grande and the entrance to Garajonay along the way.
La Palma
Area: 725 sq km (280 sq miles) — the fifth largest island.
Population: 81,500
La Palma, the most northwesterly of the Canaries, has two nicknames — La Isla Bonita (the beautiful island) and La Isla Verde (the green island), and both are suitable. Beautiful it certainly is, and very green too. Not only that but its statistics are very impressive. The highest peak, Roque de los Muchachos, rises 2,423 m (7,950 ft) above sea level, making it the steepest island in the world in relation to its total area. It is also the only one of the Canary Islands to have even very small streams.
Santa Cruz de la Palma
The island capital is an appealing town — clean and bright with traditional and modern architecture side-by-side creating much charm, especially when compared with many of the other islands’ rather bland capitals. The importance of the town is such that, during the Renaissance era, it was the third most important port of the Spanish Empire, after Sevilla and Antwerp.
The heart of the town is the small triangular Plaza de España, set a couple of streets in from the seafront on the Calle Real. On one side of the triangle is the Iglesia Matriz de El Salvador (Church of the Saviour), built in 1503. The ceiling of this big stone church is made of tea (heart of pine) and is a fine example of the Mudejar (Muslim under Christian rule) style of intricate wooden paneling. Next to the church are some splendid examples of 18th century colonial-style mansions, notably the Casa Monte Verde, dating from 1618 but having been rebuilt in 1922–1923. The longest side of the triangle is taken up by the ayuntamiento (Town Hall), built between 1559 and 1567 with stone brought from La Gomera; this is considered the most important Renaissance building in the Canary Islands. While the arches are Italian Renaissance, the interior (which you are free to inspect) is Spanish colonial, with formidable carved wooden ceilings and doors, and a ceremonial staircase with frescoes painted by M. Cossío around 1950.
The Calle Real is a delightful street in which to stroll and enjoy the atmosphere. At its southern end it takes on the improbable title of Calle O’Daly, named after an Irish banana merchant who settled on the island. Look, also, on the parallel Avenida Maritimo at the wonderfully charming row of old houses known as the Casas de los Balcones Houses with balconies, built in the 19th century, they have become symbolic of Santa Cruz. Colorful and characteristic, and with a Portuguese influence, they have overhanging balconies, and those facing the sea were once used as lookout posts.
Due to the steep, dorsal shape of the island there are only two main island routes to follow: the loop south of the Caldera de Taburiente or the loop north of it. The southern route is the more interesting of the two.
The Southern Loop
Heading west from Santa Cruz the first stop of interest is Las Nieves, a village built on the mountainside. The first indication of it is a roadside bar, followed by the 17th-century Santuario de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Snows). This holds the venerated 14th-century terracotta image of the Virgen de las Nieves, which relates to an ancient miracle when the Virgin appeared in Rome during August snow. Every five years the image is carried to Santa Cruz in a procession known as La Bajada de la Virgen (the Descent of the Virgin).
The next place of interest is the Centro de Visitantes (Visitors Center) of the Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente, located at Km 23.9 on road TF-812, (open daily 9am–2pm and 4pm–6:30pm). The English brochure is quite helpful, giving general information on the geology and geomorphology, flora and fauna, helpful hints on camping as well as a very useful color diagram of the hiking possibilities. At the heart of La Palma, Caldera de Taburiente park, covering 4,690 hectares (just over 18 square miles), is a giant crater: 1,500 m (1,640 yards) deep with a diameter of 10 km (6.2 miles), and is a 20 km (12.4 miles) in circumference. It was created some 400,000 years ago and has since been colonized by nature into a green, fertile valley. The best place to see this is from the Mirador La Cumbrecita, which is 7 km (nearly 5 miles) away on the road next to the center. Following it, the road finally climbs into a craggy forest surrounded by mist-shrouded peaks with tall pines clinging to the most precarious ledges. There are wonderful views from here (weather permitting — which it doesn’t most of the time), including the Roque de los Muchachos and the monolithic Roque Idafe, said to have been the sacred altar of the first Guanche natives on the island. You can enjoy the Caldera by car, but to get the most from the area you have to walk.
The main road then continues west through the city of Los Llanos de Aridane and then turns south, following the mountainside, to Fuencaliente. The most southerly point on the main road, it is famous for its wines. But rather than continue directly back north on the eastern side of La Palma, take the road down to the Faro de Fuencaliente that will lead you in a near circle to the most southern tip of La Palma and then up through a winding, twisting, road back to Fuencaliente. The first stop is at the Bodegas Carballo, where you can sample and purchase some surprisingly strong local wines. In 1677 the local volcano, San Antonio, erupted covering once fertile land with ash, leaving a layer of lapilli approximately 2 m (6.5 ft) deep. By the end of that century farmers had developed a technique of digging trenches that enabled them to reach the fertile layer of earth found under the cinders, where they planted the vines that were then covered with the extracted ashes. This somehow allowed the plants to resist adverse weather conditions and even the grape plague, phylloxera, that decimated vines all over Europe in the second half of the 19th century. Just across the road you can stop to pay a visit to the edge of the volcanic crater of Volcán de San Antonio and the mirador beyond it, (open daily 8am–6pm). In an exposed, windy location this looks, considering the damage it did, exceedingly benign. Just south of here are even more recent signs of volcanic activity; the volcano of Teneguía that erupted in 1971, fortunately without casualties. These eruptions sent an ever-widening stream of molten lava rushing down the green hillside here and you can see it now, petrified and black, as the road runs right through the once deadly mass. Surprisingly, plátanos (bananas) seem to take a liking to this environment, and can be seen thriving all around you. Once down to sea level you will come across the Playa de Zamora a small beach of jet-black sand squeezed in between the surrealistic lava fields. A short distance away, next to the twin lighthouses — one old and one new — is a tiny fishermen’s cove with a stony beach that has a tiny restaurant, well, a shack really, that serves up the most delicious fresh fried fish (see page 139). After that there is nothing of note, except of course the lava fields and views, until you rejoin the main road at Fuencaliente.
Heading back north towards Santa Cruz, a stop at the Cueva de Belmaco is in order. Here, you will find the Parque Arqueológico de Belmaco (Archaeological Site of Belmaco). The first stone engravings found in the Canary Islands were discovered here in the 18th century, and the ten natural cave dwellings, with their magnificent rock engravings, were the home to the Benahoritas — the ancient settlers of Benahoare, the original aboriginal name for La Palma.
The Northern Loop
This is really of little interest, and the roads often leave something to be desired. However, a trip up the eastern coast from Santa Cruz to just south of Barlovento isn’t too long, and the rather serpentine road runs through some pretty scenery. Make the first stop the miradores of Bartolomé and La Montaña, with the latter being a little higher and affording beautiful vistas along the coast in both directions. Head next for the seaside village of San Andrés and its natural swimming pools at Charco Azul (blue pool). A little inland from San Andrés and Sauces is the Bosque de Los Tilos, the largest wooded area in the whole Canary Islands and designated a “Biosphere Reserve” under the protection of UNESCO. Heritage of Mankind is the information center above the restaurant (open Monday–Friday 8am–3pm). The final destination though is a lovely, remote site just before Barlovento where, after a tortuously twisting journey down through banana plantations, you will reach the Piscinas Fajana; literally swimming pools built into the rocks and fed by the ocean waters that often crash into them. Showers and toilets are on hand, as is the pleasant La Gaviota (the Seagull), a restaurant/bar, and the views north of the cliffs falling straight into the ocean and being pounded by waves are breathtaking.
The goal in the north for most travelers is the Roque de los Muchachos, the highest point in the island at 2,423 m (7,950 ft) above sea level. There are several ways up to it, but always be aware of the weather; what looks fine from sea level takes on a different perspective at nearly 2,438 m (8,000 ft). And, of course, it can change dramatically and quickly, so go prepared clothes-wise, and know that you might not see much but clouds. Besides the views, the other attraction up here is the futuristic Observatoria de Astrofísica, regarded as the most important observatory in the Northern Hemisphere and home to some of the world’s most important telescopes, including the 4-m (165-inch) William Herschel telescope. However, as it is only open to visitors for a few days each summer, most will have to be satisfied with just seeing it from the outside.
PROVINCE OF LAS PALMAS de GRAN CANARIA:
Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura(telephone code 928):
Gran Canaria
Area: 1,533 sq km (592 sq miles) — the third largest island.
Population: 715,000
Gran Canaria is second to none for its combination of perfect beaches and sophisticated nightlife, for its history and hubbub, marvelous natural scenery, sightseeing, and shopping. Almost circular in shape with a coastline of 236 km (over 146 miles), with over 50 km (31 miles) occupied by diverse beaches, Gran Canaria is the classic volcanic cone in profile, and its mountainous character causes the climate to change radically with latitude and altitude. You can leave a wet and chilly Las Palmas in the morning and an hour later be enjoying a hot, sunny day in Maspalomas.
Gran Canaria is known, not without reason, as the “continent in miniature.” The coastline ranges from awe-inspiring cliffs to golden dunes. Inland you can choose between stark mountains and tranquil valleys; in fact, there are 32 protected areas that cover 42.7% of the island’s surface.
Las Palmas
Bustling Las Palmas, (population 450,000 — the largest city in the Canaries and the seventh largest in Spain), is a major commercial and historical center, a cosmopolitan resort, and a vital seaport all rolled into one. It is one of the busiest ports in the world.
The real hub of Las Palmas is the Parque de Santa Catalina. This square is effectively one gigantic outdoor café that buzzes day and night, and is just a short walk to Playa de las Canteras. This superb golden beach stretches for 3 to 5 km (2 to 3 miles) and a natural reef just offshore means that the water couldn’t be calmer. Las Canteras and the area behind it reflect the city’s cosmopolitan nature. Like the city in general, it has seen better days and is losing younger tourist trade to the smarter modern resorts in the south.
Away from Las Canteras make your first stop Doramas Parque, a pleasantly landscaped park named after a Guanche island chieftain, and adjacent to the park is the Pueblo Canario (Canary Village). This is a romanticized version of a Canarian village where you can shop for handicrafts and watch displays of folk dancing and singing. The man who conceived it was local artist and designer Néstor de la Torre (1888–1938), and a museum of his exotic art is in the Pueblo.
Further south is Triana, one of the older barrios (suburbs). Today it is known for its upmarket shops, and the long, pleasant, pedestrianized street of Calle Mayor de Triana offers just about everything for both tourists and locals. Adjoining Triana is Vegueta, the oldest part of the city, where Spanish forces first set up camp in 1478. History lurks behind every wall and this is a delightful place just to wander around.
Christopher Columbus knew these streets, and he prayed at the Ermita de San Antonio Abad before setting off on his first Voyage of Discovery to the New World. The present building dates from the 18th century. Close by on Calle Colón is the beautiful 15th-century Casa de Colón; this elegant house with its charming courtyard was formerly the residence of the island’s first governor, and Columbus is said to have stayed here on three occasions. Now an atmospheric museum, it recreates the Age of Discovery with exhibits of navigational instruments, charts, weapons, and everyday items of the period.
Around the corner stands the vast Gothic and neo-Classic bulk of the Catedral de Santa Ana, with its Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, which is not pretty but certainly impressive, and best seen by night when floodlighting softens its harsh, grimy front. Facing the cathedral are several green bronze statues of the aboriginal mastiff dogs after whom the Canary Islands are said to have been named (from the Latin canes).
Just down from the cathedral is the modernistic Centro Atlantico de Arte Moderno (CAAM); (Atlantic Center of Modern Art). With five floors of exhibitions, this is the southernmost contemporary art center in the European Union and focuses on the work of young Canarian creators. Nearby the Museo Canario holds the islands’ most important collection from Guanche times, with the highlight being the room of skulls and mummies, depicting the Guanches’ fascination with death (see page 14).
The hills surrounding here, and on the southern approach to Las Palmas, are full of apartment buildings and the like, and would not normally merit any attention. However, the city government readily realized that these areas looked, at the very least, rather bland. To counteract this they had the ingenuity to brighten them up; and nowadays all the buildings are painted in the most unusual, and very attractive, array of pastel colors.
Southern Exposure
The southern resorts of San Agustín, Playa del Inglés, and Maspalomas, the biggest holiday complex in all of Spain, let alone the Canaries, are linked to Las Palmas and Gran Canaria international airport by the fast and featureless autopista (motorway).
San Agustín is a restrained area of apartments, catering for more mature and discerning vacationers. Playa del Inglés is more robust, as the very name (Beach of the English) might suggest, although it attracts numerous German visitors as well. This is a fun-and-sun sprawling resort of high-rise hotels, shopping malls, and fast-food restaurants. The nightlife at the more than numerous discos, bars and clubs can be hectic. During the day people can sun themselves on the golden beaches that stretch for 16 featureless kilometers (10 miles), so there is room enough for everyone. Maspalomas is famous for its dunes that cover an wide area of 250 hectares (618 acres), which are sufficiently large and unspoiled to constitute a mini-Sahara of great beauty. They are a protected nature reserve, but you are far more likely to see naturists than naturalists here. Playa de Maspalomas is the stretch of dunes close to the landmark lighthouse and is home to a small, but ever growing, number of top-class hotels.
As you might expect, there is the usual plethora of family attractions nearby, the most important of which is Palmitos Parque, that provides an excellent day out for all the family. Performing parrots amuse with circus tricks, and caged birds of every imaginable hue are kept in beautiful gardens. The real stars, however, are the exotic free-flying residents. AquaSur is, at 130,000 square m (over 32 acres), the largest waterpark in the Canary Islands. The other major attraction, Sioux City, is a recreation of the Wild West, with gun-fights, lynchings, saloon gals and lassooing tricks, etc. The Friday evening Big Wild West Show (with barbecue) is great fun for children.
West of Maspalomas the coastline becomes dominated by towering, rather barren looking cliffs, that every now and again form natural bays and coves well-suited to become resorts in their own right. However, this area is overdeveloped; what is surprising is that development continues apace, especially given the lack of building space. Developers, however, have resolved this problem very innovatively by literally building into the cliff sides themselves, and this often leaves visitors with the rather surreal sight of wall-to-wall development taking up every inch of these steep bays. Nevertheless, some of the places retain a certain charm.
Puerto Rico is the most attractive beach resort on this coast. But it too has been grossly overdeveloped, so its lovely, sheltered, golden beach can become unbearably crowded. Its marina is the focal point for numerous marine adventures that will suit all tastes. Líneas Salmón has eight boats and runs a frequent and inexpensive ferry service between Puerto Rico, Arguineguín and Mogán, offering a charming way of getting to know this part of the coastline. Afriyachts, Puerto Rico has two catamarans that run five-hour cruises. Dolphin cruises are popular too, and glass bottom boats operate from the port. Sport fishing will appeal to the more adventurous, and this part of the coast is just the place for it; consequently, numerous boats operate from Puerto Rico.
Puerto de Mogán should be a lesson to all resort developers in how to provide accommodation that is functional, very attractive and totally in sympathy with its surroundings. The accommodation here is an interpretation of local townhouses that are ablaze with bougainvillea, arranged in pedestrian-only squares with narrow alleyways and arches leading to an attractive marina. This is lined with stylish cafés and restaurants, jazz and piano bars, and small boutiques. All that is lacking is a good beach. A submarine trip also dives from here, and one of the best nautical trips is an excursion aboard the Windjammer San Miguel, a fine old transatlantic sailing ship built in 1919.
Northern Coast and Hinterland
Arucas, is a workaday town overshadowed by an immense 20th-century neo-Gothic cathedral that stands out like a sore thumb. The road west from Arucas follows a truly dizzying route through the mountains past several caves. Some provide shelter for goats, but others are inhabited by people and are complete with running water and electricity. The route passes through the tidy small town of Moya. It is well worth stopping to see its church, precariously perched on the very edge of a ravine. An act of faith indeed!
Just off the coast road is the Cenobio de Valerón (Convent of Valerón). This is badly sign-posted. Take the turn off just before Guía, away from the sea. This convent is actually a series of Guanche caves cut into a steep mountainside. According to island lore, the daughters of noble families spent their youth in these small cells serving the native gods. At the age of 15 they were allowed to marry or to remain in the sanctuary for life. More prosaically, the caves were probably also used for grain storage. Around this area, you could spy some modern cave dwellers.
Continue south towards Agaete, which is the most attractive of the small northern towns. Agaete’s port, Puerto de las Nieves, is a haven of calm among the formidable rocky cliffs that make up this inhospitable stretch of coast. From here the coast road ascends very sharply amid sparse, windblown greenery, and the drop seawards can be frighteningly steep. An alternative route is to drive 7 km (4 miles) inland to the fine viewpoint at Los Berrazales.
Central Sights
The mountainous center of the island makes for very tiring driving. You will rarely get out of the lower gears, but the wonderful panoramas are ample reward. Pine forests, almond groves, gnarled mountains, sheer cliffs, and cloudy mountaintops beckon.
The best and certainly the most popular vantage point is the Cruz de Tejeda (Cross of Tejeda) — at 1,463 m (4,800 ft), one of the few points inland where you are almost guaranteed to meet fellow tourists. A small cluster of cafés, fruit and souvenir stalls, and men with donkeys await you at the summit. The magnificent panorama includes two rock formations that were once worshipped by the Guanches. The most distinctive is the statuesque, dark, broody bulk of Roque Nublo at 1,817 m (5,961 ft), and it takes little imagination to understand the primitive inhabitants’ fascination with this formation; the other is the Roque Bentaiga.
As the Cruz de Tejeda is the hub of the island, there are any number of routes to and from it and almost all have something to offer, so consider ascending on one route and descending via another.
From Las Palmas you have two options. The most northern route runs through the peaceful valley town of Teror. The old whitewashed houses, often built around graceful patios, boast fine traditional carved balconies. The major landmark here is a typically large Canarian church, the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pino (Our Lady of the Pine). This commemorates the miraculous discovery in 1481, in the branches of a pine tree, of a sacred effigy. The Blessed Virgin of Teror is also the patron saint of Gran Canaria. Alternatively, take the main road that runs inland from close to the cathedral and heads southwest through the towns of Santa Brígida and Vega de San Mateo, offering panoramic views of the east of the island. Because the climate here is exceptionally mild, many Canarians and foreign residents have built very desirable homes in these hills, with the gardens around their villas often being magnificent. A small diversion along this route is certainly worthwhile. Just a few kilometers out of Las Palmas, follow the signs to Bandama, the road (open 8am–10pm) leads up to the nearby Caldera de Bandama, one of the island’s finest natural features and a spectacular mirador in its own right. This volcanic crater, almost a kilometer (more than a half mile) across, is green, fertile.and drops some 198 m (650 ft) down. A scenic spiraling road leads to the top, where the Real Club de Golf enjoys such a picturesque location that even non-golfers are tempted to pick up a club. The views from here take in the mountains, fertile valley and vast stretches of the coastline from Las Palmas to the distant south.
From the west of the island drive north from Agaete and then turn inland following the signs to Tejeda for a really pleasant, and not unduly difficult, mountain ascent. The valleys here are wide and their slopes play host to some small farms; it is one of the few places in the islands where you will come across farm animals. Of interest, too, are the fantastic views across the ocean on a fine day to the snowcapped Mount Teide floating majestically above the clouds and the mountain peaks and lush valleys of Gran Canaria itself. Before reaching Tejeda turn off to the village of Artenara, to the southwest, and what is undoubtedly the best restaurant view on the island. The place in question is Méson de la Silla, not easy to spot, parallel to the main road. A dark tunnel leads through the rock with no hint of what is to come, then emerges on the other side of the mountain to a bright 180-degree mountain panorama. To the left the head of the valley, green and dotted with whitewashed little villages; it leads up to Tejeda itself, but the more dramatic vistas are directly in front and to the right. Here, the scenario is dramatic indeed; jagged peaks fill the horizon and many smaller ones are spread throughout the valley giving the impression of looking down on a minor mountain range.
Lanzarote
Area: 803 sq km (310 sq miles) — the fourth largest island.
Population: 77,000
Lanzarote is a startling place, representing the triumph of civilization over a hostile environment, and the entire island has been declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. Its pock-marked, lunar-like surface, 60 km (37 miles) long and 20 km (121/2 miles) wide, is dotted with more than 300 volcanoes, yet onions, potatoes, tomatoes, melons, and grapes all spring in abundance from the black ash. Its most unusual farm crop, however, is the Cochineal Beetle that, when squashed, emits a red dye used as coloring for Campari and lipsticks. Newer to the tourist scene than either Gran Canaria or Tenerife, Lanzarote seems to have learned from the excesses of its sister islands. Here, small is beautiful and harmony with the environment is the philosophy.
The South ofthe Island
Arrecife, the principal port and latter-day capital is a characterless place with just two saving graces — the Castillo de San Gabriel and the Castillo de San José. The 16th-century Castillo de San Gabriel, situated close to the center of town, houses a small museum of no great standing. But it is worth the walk across the small drawbridge and over the lagoon, onto the small island that the castle used to deter pirates. The Castillo de San José, a few kilometers, to the north, is a far more interesting proposition. Built in the 18th century, this well-preserved fortress that once guarded the harbor it overlooks, now houses the late César Manrique’s small but impressive International Museum of Contemporary Art. This includes works by Picasso and Miró, and is also notable for the contrast between the modern exhibits and the ancient structure that houses them.
The island’s major resort is Puerto del Carmen and its long golden beach stretches for about 5 km (3 miles) and comfortably accommodates its visitors. The sea is calm and ideal for families. Restaurants of every conceivable type, bars, and shops line the Avenida de las Playas, Lanzarote’s one outbreak of mass commercialism.
The old town just west of the beach has a charming small harbor area with traditional bars and restaurants and an array of marine adventures awaiting you. Of these, the Blue Delfin and the Princesa Ico, both glass bottomed catamarans, offer a variety of trips, sport fishing charters leave from here also. If you prefer seeing the area from the air, albeit attached to a motorboat, then Paracraft offers you the chance to paraglide.
The road west leads through the beautifully tended village of to the rather more earthy Salinas de Janubio (Salt Flats at Janubio). Every spring, for the Corpus Christi festivities, the flats provide the salt that local artists dye into a variety of colors and pour onto the streets of Arrecife to create religious and secular designs (see page 32). A little farther north are two more natural spectacles. Los Hervideros is a section of rocky coast where the crashing waves break ferociously against the cliffs and sea caves. El Golfo, by contrast, is a placid, emerald-green lagoon set beside a cliff that resembles a gigantic petrified tidal wave just about to break. This is actually the inner rim of a volcanic cone, half of which has disappeared beneath the sea. The strata, colors, and manic whirls are a fascinating sight. Note that El Golfo is not apparent from the roadside. Park your car on the rough ledge, just off the main road on the left as you begin the descent into the village of El Golfo (renowned for the quality of its fish restaurants), and follow the rough footpath over the cliff.
The newly created resort of Playa Blanca on the south coast, the third major tourist center on the island, is host to the Fuerteventura ferry, a marina and a good golden beach. However, just a few miles east along unpaved roads are the best sands on the island, collectively known as the Papagayo (parrot) beaches. You will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle, local directions (there are no signposts), and little else, as on Papagayo naturism is the norm. The Ganges Seis is a taxi boat that will drop you off there in the morning and return to pick you up in the afternoon. An alternate way to get there is to take the Catlanza s.l. a modern catamaran that sails out of Puerto Calero — the highlight is when it drops anchor 46 m (50 yards) off the Papagayo beach.
Puerto Calero, just a few minutes south of Puerto del Carmen, but with an entirely different ambiance, is a rather new and dominated by its modern marina that is lined by a row of restaurants offering all kinds of cuisine. Besides the Catlanza catamaran it is also the home port of Submarine Safaris which offers the opportunity to explore under the local waters. The trip that lasts one hour, and when it settles onto the seabed 30 m (33 yards) or so down, divers go out to feed the fish.
The highlight of your trip to Lanzarote and the magical ingredient that makes this island so special is to be found in the Montañas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire). The Parque Nacional de Timanfaya, which encompasses the mountains in its 200 square km (77.2 square miles), starts just north of Yaiza, and its boundary is marked by an impish devil motif. This desolate national park was formed largely over the course of 16 cataclysmic months during 1730 and 1731. Eleven villages were buried forever and many of the people left the island for Gran Canaria.
Drive on and turn left at the small roundabout to the Montañas del Fuego. Your introduction to the inner sanctum of the mountains leaves no doubt that at least one of these volcanoes (in fact the very one that you are standing on!) is not dead, just sleeping. In fact, less than 10 m (32 ft) under the surface the temperature reaches as much as 600º C (1,112ºF), and at the surface level it can, at certain places, get to 120º C (248ºF). A guide demonstrates this by pouring water down a tube into the earth, then beating a hasty retreat. Seconds later a geyser erupts, startling the diners in the adjacent restaurant.
Cars are not allowed any farther into the park, and from here coach tours — included in the admission price, depart to explore the incredible landscape. Any badlands that you may have seen up to this point have been a mere appetizer for the main course. The words lunar and alien are worked to exhaustion in attempts to describe the area, and still scarcely do justice to the dramatic scenery. This was caused by a massive eruption (the volcano was active from September 1730 to April 1736), during which 420 houses were completely destroyed. The last activity of the volcano began in 1824 and lasted 10 years.
With rain so rare and underground water sources extremely limited you may wonder how Lanzarote manages to survive as an agricultural island. The black topsoil is the secret, discovered by the farmers in their adversity. The porous volcanic particles that make up the topsoil are useless in themselves but act as a sponge for the moisture of the night air, obtaining water for the plants and eliminating the need for rain. They are therefore piled on top of the crops and only need replacing around once every 20 years. The other Canary Islands also use this method.
The most impressive example of this type of farming is the vineyards around the valley of La Geria. Each vine is set in its own mini-crater, protected from wind and excess sun by a low semi-circular wall of lava stones (other crops are also protected in this manner). The horseshoe patterns thus formed stretch way up the mountains and apparently into infinity, producing an almost hypnotic effect. Not only do the vineyards look good, the end product also tastes very good, and there are several bodegas in the Geria valley where you can sample the excellent local malvasía. Those with an interest in wine will want to pay a visit to the Museo del Vino de Lanzarote, El Grifo; not too far away at San Bartolomé de Lanzarote. The Monument to El Grifo, a Manrique creation, adorns the entrance to this bodega that has been producing wines since the 18th century. It is the oldest in the Canaries. Enjoy the exhibitions of wine-making tools, stroll through the vineyards and, of course, partake of the wine tasting sessions.
The North of the Island
On an island so dominated by the works and creativity of one man, it would be inappropriate not to pay a visit to the Fundación César Manrique; Taro de Tahiche; Manrique lived here and, as you might have come to expect, it is rather unusual. Built in 1968, it is located over a river of lava formed from the eruptions between 1730 and 1736 and takes advantage, at its lowest point, of five volcanic bubbles to create the strange, but nonetheless impressive living space.
The geographic center of Lanzarote lies 9 km (51⁄2 miles) northwest of the capital at Mozaga, focal point of the island’s viniculture. Here the late César Manrique designed and erected a huge white modern sculpture, Monumento al Campesino, dedicated to the peasant workers of the island.
A few miles north of La Santa, home to the Club La Santa a time-share development resort where athletes of the highest level come for both training and relaxation, is the tiny village of Caleta de Famara. It has windswept beaches with views of the daunting cliffs of the Famara Massif that lead up to the Mirador del Río and Graciosa island. There is not much to do along this coastline except sunbathe and windsurf, but as the currents can be dangerous here, be sure to take care.
Teguise is a fine old town of cobbled streets and gracious mansions and was the island capital until 1852. Now it is calm and quiet for six days of the week. On Sundays a handicrafts market comes to town where you can buy a timple — a small ukulele-like instrument used by local folkloric musicians. Several of its old buildings have been converted to craft and antique shops and restaurants. Overlooking the town is the 16th-century Castillo de Santa Bárbara. The views from this wind-blown point are worth the trip alone. High on top of the extinct volcano of Guanapay, the castle now hosts the Museo del Emigrante Canario, where sepia photos and nostalgic exhibits tell the sad story of how mass emigration to South America was the only option left for many Canarian families.
Costa Teguise, just north of Arrecife, is a totally modern resort, comprising several urbanizaciónes with time-shares, hotels, and apartments designed for a wealthy clientele. It is no surprise to realize that the King and Queen of Spain have an official residence here, and it is where they welcomed the New Milennium. There is a handful of good sandy beaches, particularly Playa de las Cucharas, where water sports thrive and windsurfing is particularly popular. Look for the championship golf course and the Ocean Park Water Park.
The coast road east passes the town of Guatiza, where prickly pears abound and where cochineal beetles are still cultivated (see page 19). César Manrique also cultivated the spiny flora into a beautiful Jardín de Cactus complete with a working windmill that produces its own gofio (see page 15). There is more Manrique design to admire at the caves of Jameos del Agua; opened in 1966, this was the first attraction designed by the great creator, where his landscaping talents have embellished and transformed a grotto and underground lagoon into a short fantasy journey. Ethereal mood music accompanies your descent into the cave, lushly planted with luxuriant foliage. Peer into the black lagoon and you can pick out the very rare, tiny blind albino crabs, Munidopsis polymorpha, which live here. Resist, though, the temptation to throw coins into the crystal clear lagoon; the attendant corrosion of the metal kills the crabs. Finally you emerge from the cave into a South Seas paradise, complete with its accompanying swimming pool. In the evening the Jameos del Agua is transformed into a night-club where folklore shows are regularly staged. The Cueva de los Verdes (Green Caves) found a short distance away across the main road, are part of the same system, and were blasted through the earth by exploding lava. There is a guided tour that includes some memorable sound and light effects, evoking the menacing volcano most effectively.
At the northern tip of the island is the small fishing port of Orzola. This is the embarkation point for the tiny island of Graciosa, a ferry service run by Líneas Maritimas Romero four times a day (July–Sep) and three times the rest of the year. With superb beaches and a complete lack of tourist development, this is the place to get away from it all for the day.
For an unforgettable view of Isla Graciosa and much more, drive up to the Mirador del Río (admission: 400 ptas, r2.40). This is yet another of César Manrique’s creations, and one that certainly shouldn’t be missed. The views from here really are wonderful indeed, and it is probably the most spectacular mirador in all the Canaries. Huge cliffs curve down to the beach with Graciosa just across the water and with the two other smaller islands, Montaña Clara and Alegranza, in the background. Combined with Graciosa and a small section of the northwest coastline of Lanzarote, they form the Parque Nacional del Archipiélago Chinijo. The only sound here is that of the wind gently whistling through El Río, the waterway separating Lanzarote and Graciosa. Besides its huge picture windows, note in the bar/restaurant some more of Manrique’s creative sculptures.
Another addition to the island’s burgeoning tourist attractions is the Guinate Tropical Bird Park, just south of the Mirador del Río. Within its 45,000 square m (11.1 acres) of carefully tended landscaped gardens you will find over 1,300 species of rare and exotic birds and animals, a new area where you can discover the world of Tamarind monkeys, and of course, performing parrots entertain in the theatre.
Fuerteventura
Area: 2,020 sq km (780 sq miles) — the second largest island.
Population: 42,000
Beaches on Fuerteventura still outnumber hotels. At the last count there were 152 beaches along the 340 km (210 miles) of coastline; 50 km (31 miles) of which are of yellow sand and 25 km (16 miles) of black sand and stone, giving it the best selection of beaches in the Canary Islands. Enhancing these even more, Fuerteventura’s coastal shelf allows for the existence of shallow transparent waters that often acquire a beautiful turquoise color. The island is situated less than 115 km (71 miles) off the coast of North Africa, and most of its sand is blown here from the Sahara, giving a new meaning to the term “desert island.”
Fuerteventura is barren and windswept almost to the point of desolation — or grandeur, depending on your point of view. So sparse is the population that the density, 22 inhabitants per square km, is the lowest of the islands. Goats survive better here than people and they outnumber the human inhabitants. However, the harsh terrain can only support so many goats. The females survive for their milk and famous Majorero cheese, Blanco (white) or Rojo (red) according to the color of the crust. A few lucky males are kept for breeding purposes but the rest are destined for the dinner table.
The wind whistles with great force in Fuerteventura and may even have given the island its name, a corruption and inversion of el viento fuerte (the strong wind). However, it is a wind that seems to be bringing good fortune to the island, as the presence of so many windsurfers proves. With the growth of tourism the island has become one of the world’s leading windsurfing centers.
The North
The once sleepy fishing port of Corralejo has been transformed into the busy Lanzarote ferry terminal and a bustling resort popular with the British. Although the old port area still has colorful fishing boats and some good fish restaurants the town is, in the main, somewhat less than inspiring and one of the least pleasant of the resorts in the Canary Islands favored by the British.
There are two routes south to Puerto del Rosario, the capital. FV-1 follows the east coast of the island, and just a few minutes from the center of Corralejo there are some magnificent, long white beaches and dunes stretching for some 30 square km (12 square miles). These, (along with Isla de los Lobos), have been declared a national park and are popular with nudists. The island lies 3 km (2 miles) offshore, and its beaches are even more secluded than those on the “mainland.” The fishing here is outstanding. Glass-bottomed ferry-boats depart regularly from Corralejo. The rest of the route to Puerto del Rosario, once named Puerto Cabras (Port of the Goats) because in the 18th century it was used mainly for the raising of goats, has nothing of interest for tourists and the town itself is a rather drab place.
The inland route south to Puerto del Rosario follows the FV-101 and a diversion, west along the FV-109 will bring you first to the Zoo Safari Calderón Hondo. There you can opt for either a half-hour camel trip or a 11⁄2 hour safari to the lunar landscape of the Volcano Calderón Hondo. Next comes the lace-making town of Lajares. And if you really want to get away from it all, continue on to El Cotillo. This tiny fishing village on the east coast also boasts some excellent beaches wonderful for windsurfing, plus a handful of local bars and some basic restaurants. Heading back south from El Cotillo, the FV-10 rejoins the FV-101 at the small town of La Oliva. This is not especially attractive but it does feature two places of interest. Just off the main road stands the Casa de los Coroneles (House of the Colonels). Its name derives from its 18th-century tenants who once ruled the island. The decaying, cream-colored building still exudes a certain haughty, if melancholy, grandeur. By contrast, the nearby Centro de Arte Canario is bright and modern, exhibiting the works of some of the finest living Canarian artists.
A little further south, just past Tindaya, the road makes a dog-leg towards Puerto in the east, and if you look very carefully to your right you will see, at the base of one of the mountains, the Monumento a Don Miguel de Unamuno. Unamuno, a writer and vice-chancellor of the famous University of Salamanca, the oldest in Spain, made himself unpopular in 1924 with the dictator of Spain, General Primo de Ribera. His criticisms of the dictator resulted in his being exiled to Fuerteventura. Although he fled to the somewhat more civilized Paris after a few months, he loved to describe the beauty of the islands in his writing. His most famous quote states that the Canaries were “an oasis in the desert of civilization.”
The Central Area
The central mountain range is encircled by two roads: the FV-20 that initially heads west from Puerto del Rosario then drops south alongside the mountains to Antigua and Tuineje before meeting up with the main north to south FV-2 just north of Gran Tarajal; and the FV-30 that loops around, off the FV-20 north of the range, dropping into the Betancuria valley and continuing south through winding terrain to Pájara and Tuinije, where it meets up again with the FV-20. As you can join this loop from the north, south or center, and even cut across the mountains at one point, you can start out from most parts of the island. Starting from Puerto del Rosario take the FV-30 diversion off the FV-20 and follow it until you see the signs for the Mirador de Morro Velosa; soon a gate man will demand 300 ptas, r1.80 per person, but this will prove to be a worthwhile investment. At the summit and with commanding views of the surrounding mountains and with the Atlantic Ocean shimmering in the distance, is a delightful combination of café, bar and viewpoint that owes its creative design to none other than César Manrique.
Betancuria, by far the most attractive and visited inland town on the island, is an oasis of greenery on this barren island. Although the riverbed here is almost perpetually dry, the town is fortunate to have a high water table. Because of its theoretical invulnerability at the heart of the island, it was made Fuerteventura’s first capital in the early 15th century. However, in 1539 somehow the ravaging Berber pirates overcame the mountains (which still provide a difficult drive today), and destroyed the original cathedral. The present 17th-century church, Iglesia de Santa María is a splendid building and hosts many interesting treasures. Look at the unusual wooden beams between the flagstones on the floor, the wooden altar and choir, and the decorated pulpit. Adjacent to the museum is a leather factory-cum-shoe-shop, set in an atmospheric old building. Wander round this lovely little town and admire the view from across the bridge, where there is an unpretentious restaurant/bar and a gift shop. Just south of Betancuria is the neat and pretty village of Pájara, but a stop at Antigua, on the other side of the mountains is in order. This is reached either by continuing on the loop past Tuineje, or backtracking from Betancuria and taking the FV-416 across the mountains. In either event, once in Antigua — the island’s capital from 1834–1835 — you can’t miss the traditional old windmill found just to the north of town, and this is your destination. Actually, the Centro de Artesania “Molino de Antigua” (Windmill Crafts Center) is much more than just that, and has something for almost everyone’s tastes. Interesting crafts and a visit inside the windmill certainly, but also ethnographic and archaeological exhibitions, modern art, an audiovisual room, rooftop view- points and an intriguing cactus garden, not to mention a nice restaurant.
Of the coastline south of Puerto del Rosario, the new cosmopolitan development of El Castillo, also known as Caleta de Fuste, is of most interest. Activities here focus around the attractive, horseshoe-shaped beach (where windsurfing is a particularly popular sport), and the well-designed marina. In the marina, there is an area where you can view the fish that frequent its waters, and a small number of activities use the harbor as a homeport. The Oceanarium is a catamaran that will take you out to visit the dolphins and whales, and the Nautilus is a semi-submersible submarine that has twenty individual seats.
The South
The main attraction is the 26-km- (16-mile-) long sandy shores of Jandía that run from the narrowest part of Fuerteventura down to Morro Jable. At the northern tip of the Jandía sands are the beautiful beaches of Costa Calma, not blighted as yet by over-development. Here, a low cliff backing and a scattering of rocks and coves give the beach far more character than some of the seemingly endless stretches farther south.
The Playa de Sotavento is world-famous as a windsurfing center, with activity focused on the F2 school at the Sol Elite Gorriones Hotel. This has one of the best, and most isolated beach locations in all of the islands. Here the beach is very wide and flat, usually empty and, as the tides go out, also very wet. The dunes behind and a little farther to the south form an idyllic beach backdrop. Urbanizaciones spread relentlessly all the way down the coast to Morro Jable, which has some similarities with its northern sister Corralejo; both are ports and resorts, but in most other aspects are quite dissimilar. Whereas Corralejo is flat, rather dingy, without many hotels and restaurants of much class, and doesn’t have much of its own beach, Morro Jable, built along the cliffs, is bright and airy, boasts numerous fine hotels and restaurants, and has miles of wonderful beaches. It is interesting to note that while Corralejo is a mainly British resort Morro Jable, on the other hand, is frequented predominantly by Germans. There are more fine beaches towards the southern tip of the island, but you will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to get there. Jable, incidentally, is the name given to the huge quantities of sands of organic origins that are frequently blown to the surrounding beaches. Windsurfing, obviously, is all the rage around here, and numerous companies operate in and around Morro Jable and the other beaches of Jandía. The Diving Center Félix (3 Km {2 miles} north of Morro Jable) offers dives and equipment rental. Consider Unisafari; based in either Jandía or Corralejo, whose professional guides will take you on a seven-hour jeep safari to the most wild, least explored parts of the island.
