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Here in Havana, and indeed
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in the whole of Cuba, there is only one daily newspaper, and it normally
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consists of eight thin pages, except when Fidel Castro makes a speech, at which
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time the country's paper shortage is momentarily overlooked. From Tuesday to
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Saturday, the publication is called Granma , the official organ of the
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Communist Party, named for that overcrowded boat in which Castro crossed to
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Cuba from Mexico in 1956. Sunday it is called Rebelde ("Rebel Youth")
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and run by the Union of Young Communists. Monday it is called
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Trabajadores ("Workers") and run by the Communist trade union movement.
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Rebelde is said to have a rather lighter touch than Granma and
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Trabajadores to be even grimmer, but the editorial lines of all three
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are identical, handed down by Castro himself. For a brief period, these papers
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were printed on recycled sugar cane, but this gave them the texture and color
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of a stiff brown paper bag and was abandoned in favor of recycled paper. Last
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Saturday, Granma announced on its front page that Cuba's "National
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Festival for the Recycling of Primary Materials" would be shown live on
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television from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
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Granma is one of the few traditional Communist Party newspapers left in
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the world, imbued with irrepressible optimism about the prospects for the sugar
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harvest and for the Cuban economy in general as the country limps along in the
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economic misery that it calls, on Castro's insistence, "The Special Period in
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Peacetime." Among several cheerful sugar stories in the last few days was one
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accentuating the positive aspect of recent flooding in the countryside. While
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this would set back the sugar harvest, Granma said, it would also make
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sugar cane easier to plant.
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Favorite topics of the paper are, of course, the
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shortcomings of capitalism in general and the United States in particular, with
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much attention paid to racism in the United States, violence and drugs in U.S.
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schools, and corruption in the U.S. government. This week's anti-American
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stories included a full-pager Wednesday headlined "Once Again Cuba Doesn't
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Lie," about a belated CIA admission in the Los Angeles Times that Thomas Willard Ray, shot down over
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Cuba in an American fighter bomber in 1961, was on a covert CIA mission. Castro
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kept Ray's body deep-frozen for 18 years before allowing it to be sent home for
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burial. Tuesday, under the headline "It's the CIA Again," Granma
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reprinted from an Ecuadorian newspaper an article accusing the CIA of murder,
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torture, state terrorism, and other crimes.
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Since the
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airing on Cuban television of an American documentary on the threat to the
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world of a wandering asteroid, Granma has been obsessed with the
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asteroid danger, which it accuses the United States of understating. This week
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it supported Russian scientists' predictions of "apocalyptic collisions" in the
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years 2004, 2006, and 2010 against NASA's reassuring one that the world should
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survive until at least 2028.
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Granma regularly makes favorable comparisons
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between Cuba's human rights record and the United States'. U.S. policy has been
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determined by wrong American ideas about political democracy, it maintains.
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Last Saturday, its main front page headline read: "The First Human Right Is the
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Right to Live as a Human Being. Cuba Will Continue Fighting, Resisting, and
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Winning for as Long as Necessary." (Since then, Granma 's front page has
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led, for three days in a row, with the activities in Havana of the visiting
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prime minister of St. Kitts, Denzil Douglas.)
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An
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ancient alleged example of U.S. contempt for human rights was the dispersal in
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1961 of three identical Long Island, New York, triplets to see how they would
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grow up separately. This story was published in Granma this week under
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the headline "Monstrous Experiment." The lifting by the United States of some
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of its anti-Cuba restrictions was reported briefly by Granma on an
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inside page and was the subject of no editorial comment either then or
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subsequently.
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Granma boasted on last Saturday's front page that the
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Web site of its international
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edition--this is published weekly in French, Spanish, German, and
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Portuguese--has been visited by 1 million people in 60 days, a surge of
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interest it attributed to the pope's recent visit to Cuba and the return of Che
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Guevara's bones from Bolivia. But the paper also deplored the "cultural
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domination" of the Internet by the United States and Europe.
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Granma specializes in historical anniversaries, finding one to celebrate
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almost every day, even if sometimes on a date that is fairly distant from the
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real one. In the past few days, it has published long articles on 1) the death
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in 1957 of a member of the Cuban underground; 2) a speech made 120 years ago by
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Cuban revolutionary Antonio Maceo; 3) a decade-old Cuban victory in Angola; and
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4) the 95 th birthday of the late Julio Mella, the founder of the
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Cuban Communist Party.
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It has a weekly medical advice column, of which
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the last two subjects have been pancreatitis and optical neuritis, and an
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occasional books column that, this week, discussed a book titled The
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Immortal Body , an anthology of erotic letters, in a review that began,
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"Sexuality, sensuality, passion, and pleasure have always been the main
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preoccupation of young Cuban writers."
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The newspaper publishes just
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one letter a week from a reader, always with an editorial riposte at the
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bottom. This week's was from a woman and had to do with the desperate attempts
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that she and her fiance made to find somewhere to eat in Havana on the evening
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of Valentine's Day. They tried more than a half-dozen restaurants and pizza
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parlors and found them variously full, out of food, closed for lack of water
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for washing up, and charging one-eighth of a month's salary for a single pizza.
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But they persevered, she said, "firm and optimistic" in their search, until
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they were finally allowed by a packed restaurant to eat their dinner off the
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floor. They were lucky enough, she said, to find a bus quickly and be back home
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in time to watch the Saturday night movie.
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The comment at the bottom of
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this letter said the newspaper had decided to omit the names of the restaurants
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concerned, "because they wouldn't be known by respectable people outside the
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neighborhood," and made no comment on the facilities they lacked. Instead it
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congratulated the couple on the courage and optimism that had enabled them in
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the end to triumph: "You got home in time to see the film, so it really wasn't
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such a bad day."
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